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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi chaps, anyone out there had any experience of using a 383 stroker in a small block......i need to rebuild my 350 +30 small block and most of the internals are old now. Ive seen 383 kits with better pistons, rods , crank etc....is this a good move? Any help tips would be great
 

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Yes, no reason to build a 350 any more when a 383 is no more money.

It gets a bit complex with internal/external balance, 5.5, 5.7 or 6" rods.

Either buy one already done or get researching.

If you have parts that you want to reuse then you'll need internal balance. If you're starting afresh then you can choose.

Most people go external balance due to it being easier and cheaper (350 is internal, 400 is external, 383 is a combo of the two), otherwise you need a crank with heavy metal in it to balance it internal (which is in theory better, although neither here nor there on the street.
 

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There is a great article by Car Craft also. Google car craft wild 570hp 383 and you should find it. It shows 3 different builds, the 570hp being the wildest
 

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TechnicalTom
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Thanks for all your help chaps...this is the set up ive seen ....what are your thoughts....looks to be a bit of a bargain to me....

SBC CHEVY 383 STROKER KIT .040 FORGED FLAT TOP PISTONS H-BM RODS 2PC RMS | eBay
Skip White is the master of the internet sales hype, but he has lots of very good positive feedback too.I would recommend some more research, especially as the H Beam rods may well require a pretty small base circle camshaft , you so not want to discover this after you have bought a camshaft.Or have to grind some metal off the con rods for clearance on a balanced assembly.Also that kit will be all Chinese , which will be OK for non competition use.If I were building a SBC then the Scat I Beam Con Rods with 7/16 bolts are less likely to have clearance issue s with the camshaft.
 

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i'd be dubious about that package, i've not heard of that piston manufacturer and 500 quid for that lot with forged pistons is too cheap. You don't need forged pistons unless you're going to spin it big time or NOS it in which case you'd have better rods and a forged crank to go with it, so I don't really get this package, just my 2 cents.

Personally i'd find a short block with hyper pistons if you're planning under the 6300 ish rpm. Over that and you'll need forged everything, that's the jump and it's dictated by the cam, i'm just about to fit a Crower mechanical roller cam 00425S and it's about the max I can with the stock crank and hyper pistons (albeit fully balanced with an ali flywheel)

As mentioned above spend your money on good rod cap screws and getting it properly balanced, over no name forged stuff.
 

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Rust buster...
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Nothing wrong with Probe pistons - they are budget to mid range forged pistons. Sold by the big names in the US (Jegs and Summit both stock them)
 

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probe pistons are used in lots of engine masters challenge builds too.
 

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I'm sure they are good, just haven't heard of them.
IMHO it's too cheap for forged pistons to be in there and not expensive enough for a proper forged setup, it comes down to the cam and the cut off point of the pistons, rods and crank. Stock crank is good for 6500rpm, same with Hyper pistons and spend the money on the rods and bolts.

Here's a good Hyper setup -
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b13405e030

A forged rotator setup would be more than double that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Again thanks for all the help....if anything im more confused on what to go for..... the eagle set up is only good for 500bhp?
 

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There's lots of ways and opinions on how to build engines.

What are your expectations? What are you doing with the car, forget HP, how fast do you want it? It's all dictated by the cam. Most stroker kits are suitable up to 6300 ish.
This will get you a very fast 383 if peak power is around 6000RPM and will require no funky parts.

If you want genuine 500hp you'll be spinning it to 7000rpm + and this requires expensive parts, this is the jump from a fast street engine to a half race engine, you'll also have a big cam with big valve spring pressures and you'll need an expensive valve train to keep it all together. Also you'll need uprated trans and rear end.
 

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caution

5cc flat top pistons give a compression ratio of 11 to 1 with 64cc heads too high for street use. 72 cc heads give a cc ratio of 10 to 1 and the cam choice would need to be carefully considered for a street engine. this is why the cheaper stroker kits use flat top as they are cheaper to produce but not so good for iron head engines.
if you are looking at buying from summit give me a ring ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This is what iv'e been running...

4 bolt block, + 30 torque plate honed.
forged pistons 10.1
stock rods all re worked
all balanced
reed solid high lift cam
Milodon deep sump/windage tray/pump and shaft
iron ported heads, 1.5 rollers, guide plates /studs etc, bow laws steel push rods
Petronix plug and play
cloyes gear drive
elec water pump
elec fuel pump
weiland high rise , 2 x 650's
All ARP studs/bolts

t400 uprated/ 10 in fairbanks converter


Was very lively but bore got watermarked when it sat , the mark would not hone out so need to go +40...The crank has a couple of small marks...this led me to thinking about the 383 kit while it was appart.
 
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