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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a bit of advice regarding chevy motor, its a 350 donated from 1980 motor caravan, Holley 600 (electric choke) carb and coupled with secondhand MSD probillet dizzy and 6AL box.

Basically struggles to start, once its running ticks over ok if a little rough, but soon as shift to drive it starts spluttering and looses all power, have to keep feathering throttle to keep it running.

think pump is supplying enough fuel as initially had a banjo leak which shot petrol about foot in the air.

Has anyone got any suggestions? as I'm no engine expert!

would also like to know the recommended fuel presure for Holley carb and what ignition advance to set dizzy to. Oh and how loud are Holley fuel pumps normally? mine makes hell of a racket, lot noisier than previous facet ones I've had, and can clearly hear it over sound of engine. Also should holley pump have a return pipe or is a single line ok?

thanks Gav.
 

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richard rawlplug
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holley pumps are noisy (blue pump???)

think on the pressure side 7 psi..?? will stand to be corrected on this tho.....

whats the timing set to..???
 

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I presume it was running OK in its original home so we know this is a chnag eof parts problem rather than something underlying ?So no cam change and when you stripped of all the emission crap you made sure all open ports etc blanked off ? What about PCV set up , all as stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the replys, had another look at it this afternoon. regulator was set to 3 psi so I've upped it to around 6, and ignition was about 6 degrees I've advanced it to around 9 degrees, checked all ports blocked off and have got stock PCV valve.

Motor runs a lot better now, only other thing is: once in drive car wants to move forward no matter how low I set tick over, the knock on effect is that when braking the brakes are fighting against engine, is this normal for torque converter on th400 box? would one with higher stall speed be a good idea?

thanks,
Gav.
 

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thanks for the replys, had another look at it this afternoon. regulator was set to 3 psi so I've upped it to around 6, and ignition was about 6 degrees I've advanced it to around 9 degrees, checked all ports blocked off and have got stock PCV valve.

Motor runs a lot better now, only other thing is: once in drive car wants to move forward no matter how low I set tick over, the knock on effect is that when braking the brakes are fighting against engine, is this normal for torque converter on th400 box? would one with higher stall speed be a good idea?

thanks,
Gav.
GAV, TIMING 12 -14 DEG STATIC.
DOES DISTRIBUTOR HAVE VAC? IF SO CONNECT FROM CARB THIS WILL HELP WITH ADVANCE. i.e LOWER TICK OVER AND A MORE EVEN IDLE.
GOOD PLACE TO START FROM. CHECK FOR VAC LEAKS. AROUND MANIFOLD/CARB. SOAPY WATER IN A SPRAY BOTTLE. LOOK FOR AIR BUBBLES.

DO YOU NO THE STALL OF THE CONVERTER?

THE AUTO BOX NEEDS TO BE FILLED TO CORRECT LEVEL WITH FLUID WHILE ENGINE RUNNING. RUN THE SHIFTER THROUGH GEARS TO FILL GALLERIES IN STALL CONVERTER. HAVING DONE THAT. YOU SHOULD BE FINE.
THERE IS A VAC ON THE BOX AS WELL CONNECT UP. FROM MANIFOLD OR CARB. THIS HELPS WITH A SMOOTH GEAR CHANGE.
IF YOU FEEL THAT THE STALL CONVERTER IS SLIPPING. ITS A HIGH STALL CONVERTER. i.e 2800rpm - 3200rpm BEFORE SHE LETS DRIVE KICK IN. I WOULD BE LOOKING AT A STALL CONVERTER AROUND 1800-2200rpm FOR A NICE STREET ROD. HIGHER IF YOU WANT A DRAG EFFECT TACK OFF AND SPIN THOSE BOOTS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
GAV, TIMING 12 -14 DEGREES STATIC

DOES DISTRIBUTOR HAVE VAC? IF SO CONNECT FROM CARB THIS WILL HELP WITH ADVANCE. i.e LOWER TICK OVER AND A MORE EVEN IDLE.
GOOD PLACE TO START FROM. CHECK FOR VAC LEAKS. AROUND MANIFOLD/CARB. SOAPY WATER IN A SPRAY BOTTLE. LOOK FOR AIR BUBBLES

DO YOU NO THE STALL OF THE CONVERTER?

THE AUTO BOX NEEDS TO BE FILLED TO CORRECT LEVEL WITH FLUID WHILE ENGINE RUNNING. RUN THE SHIFTER THROUGH GEARS TO FILL GALLERIES IN STALL CONVERTER. HAVING DONE THAT. YOU SHOULD BE FINE.
THERE IS A VAC ON THE BOX AS WELL CONNECT UP. FROM MANIFOLD OR CARB. THIS HELPS WITH A SMOOTH GEAR CHANGE.
IF YOU FEEL THAT THE STALL CONVERTER IS SLIPPING. ITS A HIGH STALL CONVERTER. i.e 2800rpm - 3200rpm BEFORE SHE LETS DRIVE KICK IN. I WOULD BE LOOKING AT A STALL CONVERTER AROUND 1800-2200rpm FOR A NICE STREET ROD. HIGHER IF YOU WANT A DRAG EFFECT TACK OFF AND SPIN THOSE BOOTS.
cheers Brad will give it bit more timing. No vac advance, its a pro billet dizzy, the mechanical advance does work tho.

Don,t know stall speed of converter, presume its the standard converter fitted. But it does pick up drive on tickover (hence problem that brakes are fighting against motor).

Have already gone through correct proceedure for filling gearbox but will check again. sounds like 1800 - 2200 converter might be the way to go.....

Thanks again, Gav.
 

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Is your car quite light? If your converter came from a heavy car and you put it into a light one then the effective stall speed will drop. T buckets are often a problem with this. Cure is a higher stall converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Is your car quite light? If your converter came from a heavy car and you put it into a light one then the effective stall speed will drop. T buckets are often a problem with this. Cure is a higher stall converter.
:idea: brilliant! yes that makes sense, motor and box are in a model A pickup I,m building, but came from a large chevy motor caravan. Just need to find a new converter now.

thanks .
 

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The Camino Kid
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Easiest way to find the stall of a converter is to find a carpark with plenty of room, select first or drive, stand on the brakes whilst flooring the accelerator, the stall of the converter should read on your rev counter assuming you have one. I'm guessing 1500-1800rpm for a stock converter? Hope this helps, Rog.
 

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Is your car quite light? If your converter came from a heavy car and you put it into a light one then the effective stall speed will drop. T buckets are often a problem with this. Cure is a higher stall converter.
Reading through the thread I was going to say exactly the same thing as Steve has, he is spot on. All standard cars will creep forward in drive with no brake pressure & transfering a box / converter set up for a 3 ton caravan into a 1 ton model A will cause this to become quite exaggerated. Something like a holeshot or sat night special will work for you. Zane @ Zannantec sells a good value converter. Alternatively if your on a budget a used converter from a pass car.

A red top holley pump doesnt need a regulater but a blue top will. They are dead head regulators so don't need a return.

Set initial advance at 10* as you have and have it set at around 34* @ 3000 rpm. Idle should be as low as possible but still not be lumpy when in drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Easiest way to find the stall of a converter is to find a carpark with plenty of room, select first or drive, stand on the brakes whilst flooring the accelerator, the stall of the converter should read on your rev counter assuming you have one. I'm guessing 1500-1800rpm for a stock converter? Hope this helps, Rog.
Cheers Rog, will give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Reading through the thread I was going to say exactly the same thing as Steve has, he is spot on. All standard cars will creep forward in drive with no brake pressure & transfering a box / converter set up for a 3 ton caravan into a 1 ton model A will cause this to become quite exaggerated. Something like a holeshot or sat night special will work for you. Zane @ Zannantec sells a good value converter. Alternatively if your on a budget a used converter from a pass car.

A red top holley pump doesnt need a regulater but a blue top will. They are dead head regulators so don't need a return.

Set initial advance at 10* as you have and have it set at around 34* @ 3000 rpm. Idle should be as low as possible but still not be lumpy when in drive.
Its a blue top Adam, probably overkill for my motor (but was a swapmeet bargain!) also have regulator.

Do you have a number for Zane? looked on google but could'nt find anything.

Cheers, Gav.
 

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When you buy a conventional hi stall converter(By that I mean one of the larger retail names) bear in mind that the stall speeds quoted are really an average figure not an accurate one for your car. As the speed varies based on weight of the vehicle and torque of the engine then it's impossible to quote an accurate figure unless the converter has been custom built for you. As you are running fairly light then your stall speed will be a little less than a quoted figure.
Also there are two speeds used, brake stall which was described a few posts above and flash stall. Flash stall is the rev figure obtained if you hit the throttle from a standstill as you launch. The sales stall speeds quoted are often based on flash stall. A converter works by means of slippage so you get increased friction which makes heat. Make sure you run a decent trans cooler with a higher stall converter. I'm sure someone like Andy can describe things better than I.
I posted on here last week asking for peoples experiences on street cars with an 'advertised' 3000rpm converter. I was looking for different experiences based on their car weights and set ups to get a better idea of how it would work for a friend of mine rather than just telling him it had a 3000 rpm converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
When you buy a conventional hi stall converter(By that I mean one of the larger retail names) bear in mind that the stall speeds quoted are really an average figure not an accurate one for your car. As the speed varies based on weight of the vehicle and torque of the engine then it's impossible to quote an accurate figure unless the converter has been custom built for you. As you are running fairly light then your stall speed will be a little less than a quoted figure.
Also there are two speeds used, brake stall which was described a few posts above and flash stall. Flash stall is the rev figure obtained if you hit the throttle from a standstill as you launch. The sales stall speeds quoted are often based on flash stall. A converter works by means of slippage so you get increased friction which makes heat. Make sure you run a decent trans cooler with a higher stall converter. I'm sure someone like Andy can describe things better than I.
I posted on here last week asking for peoples experiences on street cars with an 'advertised' 3000rpm converter. I was looking for different experiences based on their car weights and set ups to get a better idea of how it would work for a friend of mine rather than just telling him it had a 3000 rpm converter.
thanks for the info, have to admit I'm still trying to get my head around the stall speeds! i'm leaning towards something with a 1800-2200 stall speed (as suggested by newboldspeed earlier) believe the TCI saturday night special looks suitable (if anyone knows a dealer in this country?) . Also Real steel have a Holeshot listed with 2400 stall, not sure if this would be to high?

Car is a steel, fenderless Model A pickup with stock motor, 3:1 rear axle, I may tune it a little later, but having driven it briefly, seems to have enough power for what I want at the moment, spins the tyres from standing start and I'm not planning any drag racing etc.

Have a trans cooler planned, just not had time to plumb it in so far.

cheers, Gav.
 

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You would probably be fine with the B&M Torkmaster 2400 which is a cheaper built converter. A number of rods built as daily drivers rather than out and out performance use them with no problems.
 
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