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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm putting together a Serpentine 3.9 Rover V8. The car it came from had PAS and AC, which I don't need. The stock bracketry is big, ugly and now somewhat redundant. So......who's got some picutres of a RV8 set up running just an alternator and water pump?

I can sort of picture in my head how I'm going to do this, but I'd apreciate a look at what others have put together.

Cheers,

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Phil. Nice engine! I like the valve covers and the way you've routed the HT leads. Is the flame trap on the far side from the photo just open to the air? And is that an auto trans I see? What's it out of - the trans dipsticks on the opposite side from the ones I've seen.

Thing is though, I'm a little stressed about doing this with a serpentine belt, which I think is going to need heavier duty brackets.
 

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Gary , not sure about the Rover but the waterpump on a Chevy with a serp belt spins in the other direction & don't work in a 3 pulley situation. Can you get a belt that short?
 

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what about this, its covered in tape so its easier to see the belt run, alternator is a toyota/denso little thing slung under the head, its about as small as i can get away with, idler pulley is a zetec fiesta with a few holes in it, I have dropped from a 7 rib belt to a 6 rib belt, as im not having to drive the air and PAS pumps

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gary , not sure about the Rover but the waterpump on a Chevy with a serp belt spins in the other direction & don't work in a 3 pulley situation. Can you get a belt that short?
Paul, I'm going to have to introduce at least one idler, which ought to make the belt long enough.
 

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The dia of the idler wheel is not critical, but the bigger it is, the less rotation it does, so bearings last better,
I have a scratch built bracket that is bolted to the head and a couple running from the water pump bolts with braces running to the load points to stop it moving about, belt is tensioned with a rose jointed left/right turnbuckle from the bottom of the alternator and the bottom bolt of the waterpump
 

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Did you finish this?
Im about to do the same project, I like your idea but am thinking that the distributor is in the same position as the idler pulley.
I realise that it needs to be there too get adequate belt cover on the water pump.
Any photos?
 

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Thanks, but the sepentine engines water pump runs anti clockwise compared to the standard layout being clockwise - so the belt runs under the waterpump pulley hence the idler
 

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I have been busy over the last couple of weeks, and now have a bracket cast from this pattern, no pics yet, Im just finishing off the machining to fit it to my engine,
it bolts off 3 of the 4 bolt holes in the front of the head, and the other 2 outer "tubes" are tapped 10mm, with the LH one taking the idler and the RH taking the alternator


this pic should show the relevant positions where the idler and alternator fit,

 

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Very nice piece of work.
Have you turned your distributor so the vacuum misses the back of the bracket?
Is that a hydraulic tensioner at the bottom of the 2nd picture? (came out a bit blurred)
 

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Very nice piece of work.
Have you turned your distributor so the vacuum misses the back of the bracket?
Is that a hydraulic tensioner at the bottom of the 2nd picture? (came out a bit blurred)
Im using the full late model front cover which is dissy-less, you are right it is a tensioner, but its a LH/RH pair of rosejoints with a turnbuckle to adjust the tension, probably due to the crap pic but the little silver bit with the wire that is my crank sensor
 

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I get it now, I think I have found a way around the dizzy problem, I can turn the dizzy through 45 degrees to move the vacuum advance away & relocate the HT leads in the cap.
 
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