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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all...

My 65 impala with a 350 V8 needs a new battery, slow cranking, which leaves my heart racing where I go anywhere and need to start the car up - always think its not going to make it, but it always fires up.
But I rather get a new battery than having my heart racing.
it's all good and charging, I can see it on the gauges and voltage goes up when measured at the battery.

Saying that, I wonder if the system I have for the hydraulic pumps could be a culprit, but even when the rear batteries unplugged, it still is slow cranking.

I have been told these red top batteries are the thing to have these days, bear in mind is over 10 years since I bought a car battery, but its seems like £170 for a battery is a bit steep? or is this normal?
or are these red top an overkill and I dont really need to spend this much if there's something less fancy out there for half the price?

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/optima/8003-251/



Just in case anyone wonders what my setup for the rear batteries is:
From the front battery there's a cable (big thick one) that goes to a solenoid and from the solenoid another cable that goes to the boot where the 2 batteries that power the hydraulic pumps are.
This solenoid is permanently open when car is off.
The solenoid is also wired to a 12V ignition ON location, so when I turn the car on, it closes the solenoid making a connection from the front battery to the rear ones.
If I leave the solenoid always open, the slow cranking still happens.

thank you!
 

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Nowheresville
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Have you checked the earth from the main battery to the engine and/or chassis to engine, making sure everything is clean and tightened up correctly? Even a slightly loose +ve or -ve terminal on the battery can cause slow starting so it's worth checking everything else before forking out the cash.
 

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I moved to Exide Excell Premium Range years ago and never looked back!

Can leave 383 stroker or flat six boxster for a month and they'll start.
Got great cca etc but ya gotta get the right one.
Big retailers flog em on ebay.

I do use quick disconnect fittings on terminals though just in case there's a drain going on.

Having said that when the [email protected] Bosch battery died that was originally on Boxster in remote garage I got one of those lithium starter pack things. Bloody great as a back up and can be used as torch / usb charger as well!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you checked the earth from the main battery to the engine and/or chassis to engine, making sure everything is clean and tightened up correctly? Even a slightly loose +ve or -ve terminal on the battery can cause slow starting so it's worth checking everything else before forking out the cash.
Hi,
yes all earths everywhere in the car have been cleaned up to bare metal and redone as there was intermitent ground problems with lights, dash lights etc, so I went through every single little (and big) earth points and done them all again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I moved to Exide Excell Premium Range years ago and never looked back!

Can leave 383 stroker or flat six boxster for a month and they'll start.
Got great cca etc but ya gotta get the right one.
Big retailers flog em on ebay.

I do use quick disconnect fittings on terminals though just in case there's a drain going on.

Having said that when the [email protected] Bosch battery died that was originally on Boxster in remote garage I got one of those lithium starter pack things. Bloody great as a back up and can be used as torch / usb charger as well!!!
The drain, if there was one, wouldn't be a problem, although there isn't one, but I always disconnect the battery when I park it at home as I use it sporadically, never leave the battery connected unless I know I'll be taking the car out in the next 2 or 3 days.

I'll look at that Exide thanks.
I'm not sure what the CCAs required are for the 350 V8, but at a guess something with 700 or 800 should do?
 

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In this weather even a new battery isn't going to be shoving out its full rating . Tranist diesel battery is big power for relatively low money, it's what I always use.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In this weather even a new battery isn't going to be shoving out its full rating . Tranist diesel battery is big power for relatively low money, it's what I always use.
I hear you, but the battery been really slow since October, but has I had to wait for DVLA reg to come through, and then only short drives around to work on small bits and correct stuff, it never really bothered me as it would start, but I'd drive around and come back home, never had to turn the car off away from my driveway.

to be honest it does start like within 5 seconds of turning over, just turns over very slowly, but fires up.
But as now it's ok to start venturing out further and further I want to be sure I'm not going to be left stranded somewhere - saying that I have now permanently put jump cables in the boot, just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just been looking for batteries myself, looking at Optima best to check out which colour/type you need, some do starting best, some are better for accessory drain etc. yellow might suit your needs better..

https://www.batterycharged.co.uk/sh...eries/optima-reg-yellowtop-reg-batteries.html
It does sound like would suit better due to the fact I have the 2 batteries in the boot for the pumps.... but is even more expensive, £220! wow
if I have to, I'll spend the money, but I do wonder if I can get something cheaper. might not be possible though, I know it was 10 years since I last bought a car battery
 

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Before you splash money about take a reading of your battery voltage , stood and then running. Also check your timing isn't too far advanced and that will give slow cranking sympthoms.
 

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I take it you have checked the starter motor? I had simular with my Zodiac and it turned out to be the starter
 

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It does sound like would suit better due to the fact I have the 2 batteries in the boot for the pumps.... but is even more expensive, £220! wow
if I have to, I'll spend the money, but I do wonder if I can get something cheaper. might not be possible though, I know it was 10 years since I last bought a car battery
Are you saying this battery is 10 yrs old??
I'd look at say Eurocarpart and purchase a battery with the biggest amp-hours capacity and with 3,4,5 yrs guarantee (whatever your budget allows for), as it will be easier to take back within the guarantee period and it will be changed there and then like-for-like.
 

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have you got a single earth cable direct from battery to engine? if you have a lead going to chassis then a second from chassis to engine i'd add a direct battery to engine earth before buying a new battery.
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Before you splash money about take a reading of your battery voltage , stood and then running. Also check your timing isn't too far advanced and that will give slow cranking sympthoms.
Hi
I mentioned the voltage at the battery before, is all good there, steady 12v somehtin on idle, increasing as revs go up. I can also see on my gauge when driving that the voltage is high, meaning charging system is where should be.

In terms of timing, its spot on, I'm quite thurough on things like that, I did move the dizzy to retard to see if there was a difference, but no difference.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Are you saying this battery is 10 yrs old??
I'd look at say Eurocarpart and purchase a battery with the biggest amp-hours capacity and with 3,4,5 yrs guarantee (whatever your budget allows for), as it will be easier to take back within the guarantee period and it will be changed there and then like-for-like.
No no.. I mean last time I had to buy a battery for a car.
I've only had this car since October, but no clue how old the battery is

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
have you got a single earth cable direct from battery to engine? if you have a lead going to chassis then a second from chassis to engine i'd add a direct battery to engine earth before buying a new battery.
neil.
Hi, all earth's been cleaned and redone all around the car, every single earth is new and metal on metal.

I have thick cable from battery direct to engine.
Then 2 from engine to chassi
2 from engine to bulkhead
I can't remember now for sure but I think I also have one directly from battery to the front frame where headlights etc all bolts on.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry for all the individual replies.. First time using the tap talk app and not a clue how to do a multi quote reply. Or get rid of the signature it put up.

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No no.. I mean last time I had to buy a battery for a car.
I've only had this car since October, but no clue how old the battery is

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
The battery should have a date on it somewhere.
 

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When engine is running you should be nearer 13.8 -14.4v
Engine off battery should be min 12v but ought to be around 12.5v

If going for the Optima then you need a red top for starting engines. 550cca ought to be enough for starting, but the higher the number the better obviously.

I'd be looking at your alternator output - it sounds suspect.
 
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