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Discussion Starter #21
When engine is running you should be nearer 13.8 -14.4v
Engine off battery should be min 12v but ought to be around 12.5v

If going for the Optima then you need a red top for starting engines. 550cca ought to be enough for starting, but the higher the number the better obviously.

I'd be looking at your alternator output - it sounds suspect.
To be honest, the alternator does look a bit too small for the engine? Couldn't find anything on it to tell me what is so wonder if would be worth getting a higher output alternator.
When the engine revs increase the voltage does go up higher than 14V.
But, if memory serves me right, I will need to check it, on idle it shows over 12V.

Engine off, battery reads 12.5V

Ill get it checked tomorrow if I have time and report back here.
 

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I'll second what Jim said about having a lithium battery starter block - following recommendations on here a year or two ago I bought a NOCO Genius Boost HD GB70 and on the handful of occasions I have had to use it has been a lifesaver and not left me stranded. I think it was about £150 at the time but a very quick search showed them more like £180 now.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Hi all, apologies for not returning to this sooner, but the weather has been absolutely crap.. dry day today!

Borrowed a battery off a mate and a Ctek gizmo thing...

Checked by battery voltage (been unplugged as usual, for a month or so last time I used it) - 12.4V
My mate battery - 12.6V

Put his battery on my car, no sluggish cranking..... cranking fine, fired up. Checked voltage at battery on idle, it varies but doesnt go lower than 13V. Revs up and all the way up to 14.4V and stays there doesnt go more than that. So that's all good.
So it seems its a battery issue and nothing like starter motor or cabling...saying that it could probably do with cleaning up some of the terminals as they have some surface rust.

Mates' battery has no brand or markings on it, dont even know the CCAs.

Looking at my battery, there's no date anywhere, but it doesnt look to be too old and 662 CCAs
I have now plugged it in to the Cteck gizmo and see what happens, it has a function where it drains, charges, then sees if it drops under 12V then mantains, if it fails anything it reports back that the battery is toasted.

Dammit! forgot to check the alternator output and now the cover is back on the car... one for next time.

 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well.... doesn't seem to be the battery.
Still have my mate battery on it, today checked the voltage before anything - 12.7V
Started it, slow cranking but not too bad, couple of turns and fires up no problem.... on idle I get between 13V and 14V. Increase the revs and goes all the way to 14.4V - So seems like charging is ok.

However.... slow cranking. and if I take it out for a drive, which I did today for the food shop run, when I get back in and crank it, it's really really slow, almost doesnt turn, then on the second turn of the key, slow cranking, which then starts to pick up speed and fires up. Bear in mind firing up takes about 3 or 4 seconds, its not like im there with the key turned for ages.

So.... what you guys reckon? Earth cable? although its a pretty thick one straight to the front of the block and connectors and base been cleaned up.
Or could it be the starter motor is not man enough for the job.

it always starts but always makes me nervous the slow cranking...

cheers!
JP
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Difficult to say, but how old is the starter?
Does sound like a a starter with resistance in the windings.
It was on the car when I got it in October but looking underneath it looks brand new, it's not even dirty..
I took this photo shortly after I got the car and was underneath inspecting
 

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Looks similar to the OEM type starter on my BBC Vette. Always had issues starting the car - not on cold starts but hot starts (when its been stood for a few minutes). Replaced battery a few weeks ago (from Tayna - good selection and prices) also replaced starter 6 months ago. I'm sure its all down to heat soak - at some point I will probably go-up in cable diameter - so earth lead from battery to frame and engine to frame and 'hot' lead from battery to starter (which is about 6 foot long) - I want to get some of the 'resistance' out of that cable. There are 'limitations' in battery clamp sizes - commercial parts suppliers will carry clamps that take larger diameter cables.
 

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Have you tried checking or bypassing that second solenoid you have on the inner wing and is the starter spaced correctly for the ring gear?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
yeh I did try with the solenoid on the inner wing disconnected.
all that does is transfer voltage from front battery to hydraulic batteries and the solenoid is activated by a 12V live with igntion on, which I can turn off

but..and you all going to roll your eyes at me.....remember when I said the cables needed a clean? well, I hadnt done that yet, but this morning I thought "right, let's have a proper look at this cables"
and they were worse than they looked like.
in my defence, when I put my mate battery and it started better then I ruled out cabling. I shouldn't have.

Got it all off, brushed with wire wheel, made a new earth cable as the one there had quite a bit of oxidation, more than it looked like.
and voila... after all cleaned up, new bolts etc.... fires up a treat on the key. slow starting is gone.

So.. apologies for being a dumb ass and not gone check the cables properly to start with and leading everyone on a wild goose chase.
Hope this goes to show to future people reading that sometimes it's the simple and small things that make a huge difference (I should have known that by now)
 
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