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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Updated 13/04/10 BIVA re-test

Now I have finished the Truck ( well nearly) I can start on the next one. I thought you may like to see a regular build up feature of a Street rod using as many parts as possible from a single doner. Hopefully it will help others get started/motivated please feel free to comment or ask questions

I like to build reliable and economical rods and this one will be on a very tight budget ( Sue has no idea how much it cost to build the truck:incheek:)

I scored a 1993 Nissan 200SX turbo from Ebay for £480 which had been crashed by the owners brother who took it without permission and lost control, it was an auto but came with a spare engine, manual box rear axle and brand new turbo and leather interior. I stripped it bare and weighed in the shell at the top of the market and got £80 back.





The car still ran and the engine sounded OK but there is a lot in the engine bay most of which I will end up dumping.



I started this week with a pair of tapered rails I made by cutting a slice out of some 50x10mm 3mm box section then fabricated some front horns using 3mm plate



The rear axle is a LSD and is independent mounted in its own frame that has 4 rubber mount points, the front mounts stick out too far for a rod so I cut both sides off and swapped them over and welded them back on to keep them within the frame rails.





I made up some 6mm plate and welded them to the box section and drilled and tapped them for mounting the sub frame to the chassis.



Made some kick ups to tie it all together.



I have drilled out the hubs to 5 stud so I could fit a set of chrome smoothies I did a deal on which cost me £350 (4)

I took the frame off the jig and mocked it up on the floor so I could check the ride height and set the engine position.



Not bad for a few hours work

Rich
 

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Fat 'n' Loud
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Excellent. It makes so much sense to use as much off one car as you can. It should go, handle and stop just like the Nissan and have good fuel economy and look like a proper car. Win/win in my book.
Have you seen the Moggy Minor build that is knocking about on a few forums? Basically a Moggie shell grafted onto a Nissan ZXWhatever floorpan.
 

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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hiya Rich...you planning on fenders on this one?Front end?
Mark
Fenderless

You will have to wait until next weeks instalment ( Read - have not made final decision):)
 

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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can't see the spray trail from the rocket though Richard ? ;)
I know you have the same commitment Kev but not the stamina, I am doing it while I can.

Cheers

Rich
 

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Off the Xmas card list
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24,139 Posts
You certainly are Richard ...and long may it continue.:tup:

You said coupe by the way ? Spoke to Andy last night and he thought it was going to be the sedan, I thought it was going to be the 34
 

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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You certainly are Richard ...and long may it continue.:tup:

You said coupe by the way ? Spoke to Andy last night and he thought it was going to be the sedan, I thought it was going to be the 34
If you imagine the roulette wheel going on in my head and the coupe's number came up I figured I have all the parts and I could build it in no time (famous last words) just need to source a body.
 

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Grown up? Never!
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Nice choice of doner car, I had one a while ago to break for the engine and box, but was offered twice what I payed for it the same day as picking it up so it had to go;) So I'll be watching this build very closely!
Chaley
 

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Sold/cleared out most of the parts id collected for the A at the weekend as had a change of direction.

Lookin at this I may live to regret it. Have a feelin this is going to be a really good educational ride happenin here. Look forward to updates
 

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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Week 2 13/01/2009

I have made the engine mounts using the original rubbers on some gusseted tabs mount welded to the frame



Made the gearbox mounting with some box section and using the original cross member ( keep it simple!)



I have had to make each side different shapes on the drivers side I need to fit floor mounted pedals and the Nissan brake servo which in order not to hang below the chassis will be mounted back under/behind the drivers seat.





The passenger side will need to clear the exhaust and Cat, the main box will be under the passenger seat, again tucked up as far as poss to keep it neat.

I have decided to use an after market Mustang II tubular arm set up with my own made mounts, as the car will be fenderless the Mustang spring shock mount will look bulky so I will fit normal double eye coilovers.

I cut some support brackets using the bottom mounts from the kit.





I tacked the supports on and set up the arms fitting a tapped 10mm strip so I could bolt the top arms on, they will be fully boxed.





I do not have a body yet but have laid up a bulkhead, you will see the engine is mounted well back, the induction system on the Nissan runs round the front of the engine so I wanted to make sure there was plenty of room, the body will be channelled over the frame so I cut the B/H to suit.



 

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in your opinon would you say the nissan eng/box is bulky,as i said before i looked at them, ive seen them fitted to mk1 cortina,s and they produce good h/p even stock there about 180h/p, i may fit one to my consul capri, it would be mainly for the wife so anything round 150 horse is plenty, ive also looked at mx5s, what are you doing about the ecu, i may also use auto, keep up the good work look foward to next installment:tup:
 

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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
in your opinon would you say the nissan eng/box is bulky,as i said before i looked at them, ive seen them fitted to mk1 cortina,s and they produce good h/p even stock there about 180h/p, i may fit one to my consul capri, it would be mainly for the wife so anything round 150 horse is plenty, ive also looked at mx5s, what are you doing about the ecu, i may also use auto, keep up the good work look foward to next installment:tup:
Engine is not too big but the induction system makes it quite wide you may have to resite the clutch master to get it in, the manual box is very slim but quite long. The auto box has its own seperate ECU, so best of luck with that one:D. I am going to use the original engine ECU I have done two EFI rods before and it is not as bad as you think to get them running, getting an intercooler in the confines of a rod is one of the biggest challenges.

Cheers

Rich
 

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My name is Martin
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My Datsun here run's a hot 200SX engine, suspension and diff. Good to see a 200sx being used to donor something out of the ordinary :tup:

Have you seen the Moggy Minor build that is knocking about on a few forums? Basically a Moggie shell grafted onto a Nissan ZXWhatever floorpan.
Yeah a Nissan 200SX S13 floor, shortened and the moggy body grafted on top :smoke: It's still work in progress, but should be brilliant when done.

in your opinon would you say the nissan eng/box is bulky,as i said before i looked at them, ive seen them fitted to mk1 cortina,s and they produce good h/p even stock there about 180h/p, i may fit one to my consul capri, it would be mainly for the wife so anything round 150 horse is plenty, ive also looked at mx5s, what are you doing about the ecu, i may also use auto, keep up the good work look foward to next installment:tup:
The 1.8 200sx engine is 167bhp, the 2.0 one was 200bhp.

Engine is not too big but the induction system makes it quite wide you may have to resite the clutch master to get it in, the manual box is very slim but quite long. The auto box has its own seperate ECU, so best of luck with that one:D. I am going to use the original engine ECU I have done two EFI rods before and it is not as bad as you think to get them running, getting an intercooler in the confines of a rod is one of the biggest challenges.
Perhaps consider a charge cooler?

The ECU is easy if you study the wiring diagram for a while. A lot of people have struggled but providing you remove the loom correctly from the car, you'll only need a permanent earth, live and a few lives from the ignition to switch on the 3 relays to the ECU, fuel pump and power transistor (i.e the coils) . Wire in the starter solenoid signal for quicker starting, hook up to the temp sensor and adapt the coilpack loom to get a 4 pot rev counter signal, wire in the fuel pump from the relay and you're away :tup:

What will you do for the fuel pump and tank?
 

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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just looked up charge coolers, that will blow the budget build but I will not rule it out yet.

Looks like I will be calling on your experience to push a but more BHP out of the engine, like the Datsun by the way.

I am going to make a Stainless tank and use the original in tank fuel pump.

Cheers


Rich
 

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My name is Martin
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2,615 Posts
If you can weld aluminium try making your own charge cooler. Find a nice aluminium intercooler like a cossie 2wd one (about £30) and simply encase it in an aluminium box and run water through it through to a small rad (e.g. oil cooler).

Any questions about the wiring or the engine just let me know :tup:

One last thing, whilst that engine is out I recommend changing the big end bearings. These engine's have a nasty habit of wrecking them. A lot of people have ranted on about how rubbish the engines are, but it's the only problem people have with them. Some people think it's a design fault of the crank, but it can't be as the same bottom end is used on a few other variants of the engine without issues. The problem (I think) is that the dipstick tube is badly designed to route around a cambelt idler for use with the twin cam head. As a result, the dipstick will read oil even when it's low or non existent because of the way it scrapes up the tube picking up the oil remains. So I think this means a lot of these engines are allowed to run low on oil because the dipstick is such a pain.
 

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Rod'a'holic
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was aware of the perceived crank weakness , I will do what you suggest. Do you use any supplier/make in particular for bearings and gaskets?
 
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