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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
As I'm wiring from scratch I decided to upgrade to an alternator. I scrounged this one

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I can only see 2 terminals, B+ and D+.
My guess is that B+ the big one goes to battery, D+ to ignition light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Yes that right. I take it that is a Magneti Marelli alternator.
Correct! Wow, how did you know that....?
What car was it fitted to originally?




Had a helpful chat with MyGasser, thanks Neil. I then knocked out one stud from my spare hub and bashed it into place. One problem sorted, only about a million more to go!
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Thinking about the seats. Here they are
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They will clean up OK, but this tear means I need a new cover, at least for that section. First look at what's available, hmm a bit pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Does anyone know, is this part of the sill supposed to be welded on?
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Above is how the car came to me, below is adding the part I found kicking around

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The other side doesn't appear to be welded.
 

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That bit on the sills is just held on with self tappers, ( I have worked on enough moggy minors to rebuild one for a pile of bits with no instructions) . I would remove the plate in the floor over the master cyl and check for leaks . Also check the rubber bushes and pins on the inner front wishbone as prone to wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
That bit on the sills is just held on with self tappers, ( I have worked on enough moggy minors to rebuild one for a pile of bits with no instructions) . I would remove the plate in the floor over the master cyl and check for leaks . Also check the rubber bushes and pins on the inner front wishbone as prone to wear.
ah, just what I need, someone who is familiar with all the bits that get me scratching my head!
The master cylinder is junk, both clutch and brake pedals are jammed. Just a few more things on a long list!
 

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It's certainly a solid car! Good find, most are crispier than a crispy crisp and disintegrate when you strike an arc on the floorpans.

As a long time fiddler with these cars, if you are going to keep it stock... well.... you can wring a ton of power out of the A series engine, even minor mods, cooper 998 head, higher compression, larger single SU and a 3 branch is night and day, but the brakes my friend will either kill you or someone else. They are just not up to modern driving.

Cheap upgrades - marina hubs, discs, caliper brackets and backplates (if you can find them), with a small bearing spacer, remove the check valve from the master cylinder and you have a massive improvement in safety. The old vans have the MGB PCD, nice match to an MGB rear axle.

Easy to make up your own telescopic front damper kit, lower by a spline at the front. Escort blocks at the back.

An MGB axle is an easy swap and even with the std engine, you can break the minor axles.

The problem with the RX8 and other mazda boxes is that they won't fit in the tunnel, foul the rack, (can notch the bellhousing to a point), and you have to mod the shell, which might invoke the dreaded test. The conversions sold are really expensive because they replace the entire case with a custom casting to make it fit.

A ford 5 speed is a well proven easy conversion you with your skills could make up yourself.

The higher ratio (3.9:1) diff in the MGB axle really transforms even a stock car.

So my honest advice would be:

Any sort of disc brake conversion.

Make up a tele kit front and rear.

Keep the 1098 engine if it's not totally worn out.

5 speed ford box conversion.

MGB rear axle.

This would be a couple of weekends work, not much cash and would be a good basis for either a big power A series engine or a Zetec on the ford box later. All of it adds value to the car too.

People really under estimate the fun you can have with even a mildly tuned 1098. Bore it and fit Hilman Imp pistons and you have a really torquey 1200 with plenty of power for trundling about.

Whatever you decide, enjoy!
 

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yep, he's got mgb rear axle and mgb hubs/discs/calipers to fit minor uprights already so set up for better brakes. it has the early smaller a series engine though not the 1098.
 

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yep, he's got mgb rear axle and mgb hubs/discs/calipers to fit minor uprights already so set up for better brakes. it has the early smaller a series engine though not the 1098.
Great! The 948 is actually a better base - shorter stroke and revs better. You can use std sized 998 pistons, (cheap on ebay when they pop up), and over bore to 998 or more to use the plus 40/60 sizes. Larger bore pistons can be had from Australia, but I'm thinking budget mods here.

60hp is pretty easy and it's enough to make it about the same power to weight ratio as a modern hatch.

The A+ pistons will take significant boost if he wanted to go down that route. Not hard to get 100hp out of a 998 with a mild cam, modern small turbo and an MG metro turbo carb and inlet manifold and he'll find it easy to build a turbo manifold for it.

Possible to convert a nat asp SU for turbo use too. Ivanhoe can probably help with that?

Then there's the BMW K100 8V head conversions etc for the small bore engine. 1275's are stupid money now. I used to weigh them in :eek:, wish I had kept them all...
 

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When you take the master cyl out unless someone has done it put the bolts back from the inside, we used to put a chain around torsion bar and lever it down with an old landy 1/2 shaft to get the bolts out.
I was going to say all the mods V6 said but you said stock, defo the discs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I appreciate all the info and comments.
As MyGasser said, I have all the bits to add Mgb axle , discs and the Zetec already Rwd.
But I'm gonna save all that stuff for another possible project, I've already committed to keeping this stock, due to lack of funds, just want to turn it around quickly.

So I had some alternator fun today - after reading of Ivanhoews similar adventure.
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With mine, going in front was too far forward

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...and going behind was too far back.

So I flipped the alt around and ground some metal away, this combined with spacing the pulley away with a washer got me all lined up
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I made up a bracket from available metal
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Just need a slightly longer fan belt to complete. I'll probably tidy up that ugly bracket too.
 

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how can you fit an alternator and not disc brakes? neither are 'stock' but disc brakes are a safety issue surely? both are unseen too when parked or driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
So I've got my head around the fact that I'm doing this mostly stock, not modified, and now I'm enjoying the build.
I've discovered more and more things which need repairing, replacing etc this week.
I've replaced everything on the stock brakes, nearly finished now.
I've been cleaning up surface rust on the underside, engine bay etc, and treating it with Hydrate 80 which I saw on Blackpops thread - good stuff.
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Here's the removable gearbox cover, just needed a small piece of metal welding in where a fibreglass repair had been made historically.
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Cleaned up and ready to go back on.

Also, the engine was an unknown quantity (like just about everything on this car), but I've now got a new electronic dizzy and a new coil, and she fired up straight away. I had to laugh, cos when I came back indoors with "she's fired up victory smile" Wifey hadn't even heard it, even without any exhaust! Slightly different to the blown SBC then!!!

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I sorted out all the junk in the back of the car and found some useful bits. I like the look of this hooter, but it doesn't work, any suggestions for repairing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
There's an adjusting screw on it someplace, worth a try as the contacts get corroded.
I thought that might be the case, I'll have a look for it tomorrow.

I changed the name of this thread to Stock Morris Traveller.
 
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