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just about to sort the suspension on my series 1 1955 chevy stepside. Have been told that jag front clip is a relatively easy swap but jag independent rear not so easy any truck owners out there done this or is the standard mustang 2 with 9 inch rear the way to go?
 

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got one in my shop right now, a '51 with a Jag front clip. It's from a series 3 Jag and all my mate did was to fabricate a couple of brackets, weld them to the truck chassis and simply bolt the clip into place. You need one from a V12, or at least V12 springs as the 6 cyl springs are too strong. This will of course depend on what engine you are using. My mate has a Transit d.i. in his. We just had to change the springs the other day as it was sitting too high and on the upper limits of suspension travel. He has a Camaro rear axle on it but it's on truck leaf springs with lowering blocks. It is now 5 lug, 5 on 4.75 pcd all round.

 

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JAG FRONT IS THE WAY TO GO PAUL BURNHAM HAS BEEN USING THEM FOR YRS ON EARLY CHEVY TRKS HE USES XJS SUBFRAMES EVEN ERIC CLAPTON HAD ONE BUILT OVER HERE AT ROY BRIZIOS SHOP USING A JAG UNIT, THEY CUT THE DASH & SWITCHED IT TO RHD WITH A RHD RACK , YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND A LHD RACK THEY SOLD PLENTY OF JAGS IN EUROPE IF NOT LET ME KNOW I,LL SE IF I CAN GET YOU ONE HERE , I,D GO WITH A REGULAR 10 BOLT CHEVY R/END GIVES YOU THE SAME BOLT PATTERN AL ROUND & JAG IS THE SAME AS CHEVY PASS CAR 5 ON 4 3/4 & ITS STURDY ENOUGH FOR A NON RADICAL SMALL BLOCK RAY A in sf
 

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The 8.5 inch 10 bolt is pretty tough but they made one with a 7.5 ring gear if I remember correctly. I have one behind my big block Olds and I drive it very hard and have had no issues but they can be made very strong. The Ford Ranger/Explorer 8.8 is supposed to be real tough and can be found with disc brakes and a limited slip differential stock.
 

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Hello, my mate says he bought the left hand drive rack new (probably meaning a re-con unit) and it was about £150, so they are readily available. If using a V8, you'd be better with the heavier springs right enough as Jamie drove his for the first time today and it has settled a bit with the lighter springs and a tranny d.i. engine. Your sbc will be heavier than a tranny. His rear axle is a 10 bolt from a Camaro, which is obviously man enough for an old oil burner.
 

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£150 for a brand new or re-can LHD Jag rack ... where.. please where... I paid 300 sodding quid for an old one for mine..... ;o(..
The Jag front clip is real easy fit Brittal, check out nobody's build in the garage section.
 

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Haven't read the whole thread but don't bother with IRS on the rear, a Ford 8, 8.8 or Chevy 10 bolt will suffice. If you're using Jag front you'll probably be better off with a 10 or 12 bolt as you'll have the Chevy/Jag bolt pattern.
IRS is a big headache and the advantage is pretty much zero, in fact they can make the car handle worse. A good live axle setup is king.

I have a Mustang 2 front end with an 8" rear setup on the Stude and the case is freekin awesome.
 

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I'm building a 53 Chevy truck and have installed Jag IFS & IRS and it's has much work as you want to make it, some people use the jag cage to mount it but I made a tube frame/cage for mine (pm me for pictures) it's a great set up, I sold my 10 bolt rear and went with the IRS, don't get why people want to knock em when they haven't done it.
 

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Research the IRS as much as you can as there's more positives and less negatives compared to a 10bolt or other live axle. I can lay my frame completely and only notched the rear end around 65mm iirc meaning i won't have to raise my bed up much at all compared to others laying frames on live axles with f all of bed height and Most live axles have drum brakes that can be converted to discs with a lot of messing about when Jag IRS gives you inboard discs with big brakes.
 

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Don't think i'm knocking IRS, on a rough road it'll give a nicer ride. Modern IRS that is, not old IRS with no bottom control arm i.e c3 Corvette, that really is no better than a live axle in the grand scheme of things. There's IRS and then there's IRS (i've got a pro touring c3 Corvette)
IRS is easy to get wrong and when you do you'll get horrible toe steer, get it right and it's great. The live axle is a simple setup that works really well, the leaf springs give a great ride in the Stude and it corners like it's on rails. So don't fit IRS thinking you'll go round a corner quicker because you won't, do it because you'll get a slightly nicer ride on rough roads.
Now the front suspension is where most of the focus should lie. straight rack at ride height. zero bump steer, enough suspension travel, neg camber and a nice amount of caster.
Now the live axle/IRS pro's and con's with fitting to your project I don't know, it may be packaging that makes you go one way or the other.

Just thought i'd give my 2 cents as live axles get a lot of undue stick from people who claim to know they suck when they haven't got a clue. One thing you won't get from a live axle is toe steer!

Good luck with the project and keep us up to date with your progress

Cheers, Aaron.
 
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