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Dash looks very good, house news is very very good, stuportasticnessnosity is having a good effect worldwide right now, so it all looks super good from here. (y)

Apart from that lock wire, which intuition tells me won't carry more than .0013 mA so the engine won't run with the door open....
 

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On a complete tangent reference your one legged previous owner (possibly) My parents once bought a house from a lady and her one legged brother, they moved what they wanted and left everything else, so along with hundreds of old newspapers and lots of junk was one of his old wooden legs, pink with a size 8 foot and working knee joint, leather sewn around the hole at the top, straps to secure it etc, it sat on our landing for years so we never used to re4act to it, but it used to put the willies up anyone who visited and wanted to use the loo
:LOL:

It was there for years I don't know why my parents didn't get rid of it, mind you they have had a coffin trolley in the basement for over 30 years and still don't know what to do with that

Im normal by the way
 

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Discussion Starter · #506 ·
hello .


i had a fiddle with the little switch that stops the car cranking unless its in neutral this week .

What type of switch is that then robert , i hear you all ask ...


its a ..





saucy little bakelite number , which appears to be hermetically sealed , but i could get at the bottom ..





the little metal button that should move in and out ,was seized down ..




grabbed it , gave it a twist , and it popped out !..





gave it a polish ..





and checked it for continuity , all was well .


when i went to rewire it i was quite charmed by the care mr AS electrician had taken with his wire ends ..






so i tried to live up to his stirling work ethic ..





i smugly strode over to the car to rebolt it with its little 2 ba bolts , only to realise that below it , there was another bloody burgess microswitch ,for the reverse light !


and yup , getting a flat blade screwdriver on these screws , as well and undoing the nuts with a 1/4 socket was a grief fest of finger fun .

did the same to that switch , and replaced them both ...here are some abstract pictures , that may make sense...








see ...nonsensical .





next i was researching the dooor locks , and found out the little wire goes to a plate by the door handle , , this was i found in my car bits ...




not so much a spring chicken , as a winter roadkill ...however i took it apart , scraped it a bit , made a new spring , and got this pheonix ..








and it works .



lastly , i wanted to do something about the finger in a bucket fit of the end of the gearchange rod .. so i found a rough old bit of brass , and wizzed up a little top hat ..





which fits in here ..







and has reduced the play to a level i find acceptable . best thing for those racing ,on the column, gear changes :)




and thats about it , not a huge amount, but bits of progress , and now it will crank , and have a reversing light .




regards
robert
 

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Well done, Robert. AS, their switch suppliers and yourself deserve the Greta T Green Award for buying in repairable switches, and yourself for re-using same, rather than replacing. Neat repair on gearshift, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #508 ·
Thank you Hemi . :)

This week I had a bit of a go trying to talk to the ecu that controls the lpg mixture , had no luck , and took it apart to find this ..





not a very healthy looking resistor , so i ordered another one , which will be here tomorrow.100 ohms 1 watt.

Next my bit of rubber hose arrived , this meant i could finally connect up the water feed to the heater , and then get the inlet manifold on ..




And then straight onto to the throttle linkage fun ..


as you can see , there are a couple of rods connected the throttle lever , one from the pedal , and one from the gearbox ,the ratios and movement are important ,so i have to devise a way to mimic this on the new inlet .

first off i made some measurements ..






had a ponder , and decided to try to incorporate the original lever plate , to this end a got a shonky old bit of ally ..




i measured the original mounting height of the lever , and mimicked that on the plate by drilling a mounting hole and a pivot plate hole .


this then bolted to the inlet , and i experimented to get it all as it should be.

to do this first i held the throttle pedal at the correct place with a spacer ..





i then moved the mounting plate around to get the correct angle on the lever plate of 18 to 20 degrees , and found i needed to extend the rod by two inches ..





there it is with a bit of s/s tube welded in .


getting that rod off with its rusted in split pin was a delight .



here is how it sits ..







i spent a long time with the mirror on the stalk ,and the angle box setting the pivot plate angle ,






next i marked the plate , and drilled the 2nd hole so its bolted in two places and cannot swivel .



tomorrow i will work on the vertical rod to bring the motion up to the throttle body .

luckily i looked through Ali Babas cave of a thousand delights or A.B.C.o.a.1K.D and found these goodies..






which may come in very usefull indeedy .



The prime benefit of using the original angle on the lever arm , is the gearbox rod , once i extend it , should behave the same way as it originally did .


in other news .

I spent a lot of time this last wek looking for the starter switch ,which i had lost . just about dismantled the cave , my bedroom living room car etc , but could i find it ...nope.


When i started working on the linkage , i found the pedal pivot was seized ,and the rusty floor was giving way to let the pedal move ,a bit of lube and wiggling and it came free , but while i was in that area , i looked sideways ,and there wedged in a hole in the floor ,was this little urchin..












BRILLIANT .


regards
robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #509 ·
Well i had a success today , a job i thought was going to take days of plans graphs ,calculations etc , the throttle linkage with its multiple ratios , got done .


looks like this ..




and moves like this ..






i have to make bushes an proper pivot bolts etc , but the design gives me full throttle when the pedal mechanism is on the stop , and closed throttle when the pedal is 50mm from its stop , and the pivot plate that operates the gearbox is 18 degrees off vertical .


i made a new vertical rod , then shorted it 34mm , and drilled a new hole in the pivot plate to change the angular vertical movement ,did it all by eye and no paper was harmed during this process .


pedal pressure is a nice smooth loading , and my experiment to drill the hard plastic cable disc on the throttle body , and then tap it 8mm ,seems to have worked .




onwards !!



tomorrow i take off the inlet again , so i can get at the gearbox rod , and extend it and free up its adjuting threads to make it possible to tailor it in .


( i also forgot to put silicone around the waterways ,but i don't want to sound inept , so lets leave that bit out )





regards
robert
 

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The overlooker knew you would have to take the inlet off again and made you forget the silicon to save you grief. Shes good to me as a few times if I had done stuff it would have made it harder to do other things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #512 · (Edited)
not a lot , but a little done .


when i took off the inlet i realised that the hole number 2 was not sealing , and so spent a while on the 80 grit and flat plate sanding it down , here it is about halfway done with a black paint guide coat ..






i then gave up , and handed it to a friend with a big linisher , and he will do the rest , , after i popped it on a press and tweaked it a bit in the area.

i also re made the ally throttle brace plate out of 3mm stainless for extra stiffy ness nosity ..





i tapped the pivot hole 3/8th unf , and used a prop bolt as the pivot ,with a nylock on the end .

i then made a new thicker steel sealing plate for that hole on the inlet ,and reshaped the pivot plate , fitting a steel pivot hub...





the whole mechanism..






lastly i need 7 knobs like these ,




and the club chap was all ready to give me some old ones cheap , 4 months ago , but then no luck after lots of asking, i wonder if i have been blacklisted due to crimes against originality , anydup , i am having a play making my own out or brass , i got a m12 domed nut , made a 7mm bore steel insert ,crossdrilled it with a m6 grub screw , and tried that on the shaft of the switch ,looks a bit like this ..





also i could machine down the dome and fit a letter in the top .



second lastly i lengthened the gearbox rod ..







regards
robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #513 ·
Today i had fun with switches .

these switches to be exact ..





one on the left has 3 connections and controls the limpest heater fan ever , low speed , and slightly less low speed .

the one no the right controls the two speed wipers ,and has 6 connections .

on my car , someone had tried to undo a terminal on the wiper switch , and broken it off, when i tried to undo them i realised why , they were incredibly tightly rusted on , and turning the screw head simply twisted the terminal .

using two sets of mole grips , and a lot of force , i got them all undone ...i then swapped the wires over to the other switch ,since it was easy to undo ,and had been running a lot cooler than the wiper switch had been judging by the rust on it where the plating had been burnt off .



now i just had to connect the 3 heater wires to the bad switch , but of course , one of its 3 terminals i needed was a wobbler , so took it apart .

inside was a ring of brass cups , , i drilled out the hole where the connector went , and popped in a m3 brass screw ..





dimpled it with the die grinder..





you can also see on that picture where i have drilled out another to fix it too.


the tiny little foot on the terminal i tapped out to m3 ..






and then screwed it onto the brass screw , and added a s/s locknut with loctite on it ..





did the other one too..






and now it works .:)



with the inlet manifold , it needed a bit more work after the linisher action , so ,to get rid of a dip , i double sided sticky taped two sockets to the vice face , held the manifold up against them , then put a 4mm bit of metal plate on the other jaw , inline with the gap between the sockets , this then put localised pressure on the ally as i tightened the vice , and worked well , i got the inlet to this stage ..







which i think will do .... oh, as you can see, i also cut a section out of it , to clear the water stub for sure , and to allow it to flex a bit more as i bolt it up .



lastly, i did a bit of work on the boost gauge problem .


i want a gauge that has a black face and white numerals and needle , so i decided to hoick the one off the project 17 bike , since it had suffered from what i thought was simply needle slipping around the spindle ,and repair it .




the bike would back fire into the plenum on occasion , and this was why the needle had slipped round ,,or so i thought...


i painstakingly levered off the crimped face ring..









only to find the real reason was the rack and pinion in the gauge were kaput !

BUM !!



so that whole plan was a bust , but worth a try .


second lastly i wired up the reverse switch , and also fed the wire from the tank to the dash ready to connect to the lpg ecu .




thats all folks . .

hasta luigi !





regards
robert
 
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