[Taxirod]

I found the yoke for the back of the Mazda gearbox. Also a bit of an old Rover prop.

Was it too much to hope that the Rover yoke would fit the Cortina axle?????

Yup.

So another item on my wanted list.
I wonder it's the same as other Fords.

I dug out the thermostat housing, this is a common clearance problem when turning a Zetec around for RWD.
Seem to have enough clearance, maybe??

Nope.

I've seen aftermarket solutions which are expensive, Burtons do one for £233, and it would foul my exhaust anyway, so gonna make my own.

Also remembered that I had made a flange to bolt up to the exhaust manifold, have a piece of stainless to go in it, just ordered a bend for it.
Some progress then!

 

[4potHemi]

That last speedo shown in Hot Rod Daddio's posting looks very much like one from a Fiat 124, which would be logical if it came out of a Lada........

 

[rodbuilder]

You could cut the bump stops down a bit as they are not part of the chassis, may make the fenders a better fit.

The Willys 41 front or 37 ford may look better as it bolts to the inner wing much higher.

 

[Taxirod]

Just found a much cheaper water rail solution
Zetec RWD Water Rail Outlet, inlet side. | eBay

Will just need to get an inline thermostat.

 

[Taxirod]

4pot hemi - thank you.
Rodbuilder - good idea, that was what I did on my first rod, a 32 Roadster on a taxi chassis with a Cortina front.
I will investigate the 37 Ford front wings idea.

 

[mygasser]

have you looked on the tribute automotive website ian? they have the old hardy county hotrods moulds and are priced cheap enough even if not top quality.
neil.

Tribute Automotive - Hot Rods

MX250 / MX250C Mazda MX5 based 1960's style hardtop / softtop, A352 Triumph Spitfire 1950's sports car, Jaguar D Type race replica, MRS200 Toyota MR2 based Group B Rally Car, Mistral and Kobra 1950s replica, Z300S BMW Z3 1950s GT, AMZ Mazda MX5 1960s hardtop

www.tributeautomotive.co.uk

 

[Taxirod]

Thanks Neil, yes that's where I'm looking, they do a RPU for £700.
If someone has some 32 fenders or grill shell going cheap I'm interested.

 

[Taxirod]

One idea to hide up the Ugly bit of box section at the front was to emulate the classic 32 look with a front mounted tank. Just like the current pic by RnS at the top of this page.
So I cut up a fire extinguisher, doesn't look too much different?

I could hide the remaining bits showing either side with a square number plate one side, and er, well I dunno what else the other side.
Plan is to put large headlights in front of those horrible main chassis rails.

Also today the new manifold arrived, and it fits

Space is tight for carb so I've ordered one to check clearance.

Another issue is the clutch, it was a cable one

Rather than try to adapt the pedal to work a master cylinder I think it would be better to get something like a Mg Midget pedal and cylinder and mount that. The Mazda RX8 master cylinder has a 0.7" bore, anyone know of another one with similar bore that I could use with Mg Midget pedal (or similar?).

 

[mygasser]

now you know i like an off the wall idea ian. a mate fitted a rover v8 and lt77 5 speed to a capri. instead of changing the pedal box he ran the clutch cable forward to behind the headlights and made a bracket to mount a master cylinder with a lever worked by the clutch cable. you could 'trim' a pedal box and mount it somewhere the cable will reach and do the same. anywhere it'll fit as you only need to run hydraulic pipe from the master to the slave from whereever you put it.
neil.

 

[Taxirod]

I like the "different" approach to solve the problem. But I've cut the clutch cable off now. I do have access to a very big pile of new old stock cables though, so will keep your idea in mind!

 

[MYTHING]

Split the fire extinguisher in half, slide the two parts to the outside, fit a square number plate in the centre, cap off the open ends to form an area for the number plate

 

[Taxirod]

Thanks MyThing.
Ordered the prop from Driveline today, thanks Kobi Dave for suggesting them.
A few bits arrived, Weber Dgas

Which just clears OK. I noticed that it was not level, so attacked the mounting surface on the manifold

needed more tidying up at this stage, nearly done now.

Cut a 90 bend in half to get 2 x 45s, this will create the downpipe.

Electric fan arrived so I mounted it to the rad with some jiggery pokery.

Also I've been cleaning up the metalwork, sanding, treating painting. Thanks to Mark Blackpop for paint advice.

Been thinking about seats, I want ones WITHOUT electric motors, where should I look? MX5 perhaps? I thought most modern cars have electric seats.

 

[splitty66]

Mx5 seats are my choice, no electric’s just good old fashioned levers, quite comfortable too and probably slim enough to fit your chassis.

 

[Taxirod]

Thanks Splitty, I've bought a pair of Mx5 seats, collect at weekend.
Meanwhile Devon Rat kindly let me buy a pair of Devon wheels.

Interesting tyres came off

Rims are really skinny, like 3"!

My local tyre man has some 175 60 x 16 which will go on, but ideally I would like skinnier tyres to match the Rims.
Tried phoning around etc and came up with virtually nothing, apart from 165 x 16 at £250 a piece!
Plan was to blast and paint these wheels, getting hubcaps to fit, but don't want to put too much into these wheels if tyres are going to be a problem.

 

[KOBI-Dave.]

What you need Ian, is some taxi tyres

 

[4potHemi]

I run taxi tyres on my Riley, and you'll know as much about taxi related stuff as anybody!.

I've found they're the cheapest form of life in the 16" size, but of course have to meet statutory regulations in diameter/circumference so the thinnest you'll get is 175 - mine have a 75 profile. The Riley rim is pretty narrow (original fitment 575/16 crossply), and the tyres look pretty narrow, in relation to their height, compared to most other modern tyres. The alternative is 600/16 crossplys, but they're pretty expensive.

 

[KOBI-Dave.]

I've got them all round on my project car, my original front rims are pretty narrow , and taxi tyres look great on them. The Pug rims on the back are really a bit too wide for 175s, but they are on anyway!

 

[devon rat]

I dont know what you think about using crossply tyres ? I think what your building would look great with 500/525 16 on the front and 750 16 on the rear. avon tourists from longstone tyres are £166 each

 

[Taxirod]

Thanks for all the input. Initially I didnt want to use the taxi tyres, didnt want overall diameter so high, but it looks like this is the best option. At this stage I can build the fenders around whatever wheels/tyres I use.

Im still looking for rear wheels, prefer 8 x 15 or 8 x 16. Even if they are skinny i can have them banded. Or if wrong PCD can have adaptors made up.

Today i'm trying to get it ready to fire up the Zetec for the first time. All the electrics and ECU have been removed, I was led to believe the an EDIS 4 module will make it spark and run, but I'm really struggling to find clear helpful info on the internet.

PS just got in contact with a very helpful rodder who is going to email me a wiring diagram, its very simple apparently.

 

[Taxirod]

I've drilled out the original pips that the hubcap click onto. Using M8 bolts it will take a taxi hubcap.

I'm going to get some molasses to try the derusting idea.
I'm also on the trail of a pair of taxi rims (hard to find now). If I get them they will obviously accept hubcaps to match fronts. I can get them banded out to 8 x 16 and get pcd adapters. Downside is tyre availability/price.

Meanwhile I've been continuing with the long job of derusting the chassis/monocoque.
Also removed the fuel tank today, its mostly sound but I noticed one pin hole which leaked some old fuel when the tank was upside down.
Tank sealer then.
Wire brushed all the external surface and gave 2 coats of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80.

3