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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, my mate bought a ford 103e the the other month its totally standard, and we cant get it to idle, when we went to look at it the idle was really high we assumed it just need adjusting as it ran and drove perfect... so we get it home alter the idle and it wont keep idling... the idle is all over the shot, up down up down, stall.... but revs up fine. Sometimes you can get it to idle quite low by fiddling with the mixture screw and idle but if you rev it, it cuts out once the revs drop back down. Im stumped now... we fitted a thottle shaft repair kit in the carb as that was worn to shit... iv rebuilt the feul pump, the dizzy and replaced the exhaust/inlet gasket. But still no change!

HELP!!! haha.

Cheers, Scott.
 

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Right, my mate bought a ford 103e the the other month its totally standard, and we cant get it to idle, when we went to look at it the idle was really high we assumed it just need adjusting as it ran and drove perfect... so we get it home alter the idle and it wont keep idling... the idle is all over the shot, up down up down, stall.... but revs up fine. Sometimes you can get it to idle quite low by fiddling with the mixture screw and idle but if you rev it, it cuts out once the revs drop back down. Im stumped now... we fitted a thottle shaft repair kit in the carb as that was worn to shit... iv rebuilt the feul pump, the dizzy and replaced the exhaust/inlet gasket. But still no change!

HELP!!! haha.

Cheers, Scott.
Check the points and timing and also compression check to make sure there isn't a hidden major problem. If you are having to richen it up to get it to idle check for air leaks at every gasket between carb base and block.
 

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as kev says check for air leaks. easiest way is spray wd40 or similar around the carb and inlet gaskets when idling (fast if that's all it'll do). if the revs pick up any time it's running on the spray and you have a leak. if you don't want to strip and replace gaskets now a temporary fix/bodge is feed in a bit of silicon where the leak is when running. once sealed switch off and wait for it to set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheers for the reply mate, we already fitted new points and condenser, tryed altering the timing but makes no difference.... so today took your advise and done a compression test... my tester seems a little wanky so I might borrow my mates and do it again.... but the results where all pretty similar though a tad low... each cylinder came up at around 130psi I think its supposed to be around the 155 mark... but if there all the same it could be down to having an overbore? The car does burn a little oil but nothing alarming. I sprayed aload of multi spray around the inlet again and the revs to pick up! So im wondering if theres a crack in the manifold somewhere... although I did notice that one of the bolts that bolt through the inlet mani and exhaust for the heat transfer part is screwed in wonky so weather its drawing air there? Anyways were poppong over to see bob wednesday get a new manifold and gasket off him. Fingers crossed this'll fix it haha
 

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Check the points gap again as niggling away in my mind is the fact that one dizzy make gaps to 0.015 and the other to 0.025?
 

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Does it have vacuum wipers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmmmm... I always set my 100e motor in my model Y to .014 so thats what I set the pop engine too. It does have vacuum wipers but I tryed disconnecting them and blocking the pipe but it still runs the same so I ruled out a leak in the vacuum system already. Cheers for all the help! Any other ideas shout them out! And when iv sorted the manifold i'll let you know the results as I'll but totally stumped if that dosnt sort it haha.
Cheers again guys
 

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It does sound like the hot spot may have a hole in it. I did away with the hot spot entirely on one of mine as the carb was getting very hot - dont remember this happening when the cars were dailys. Anyway, I seperated the two parts of the manifold and cut them back as far as possible. Then I welded plates into the square holes in each manifold. This replicates the arrangement on the 4-branch manifolds used on specials. The carb now stays coolish. The engine warms up quickly so I didn't see any need for a hotspot these days anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Right, I fitted the new inlet and exhaust manifold with all new gaskets tonight... and she still runs like a dog! No change what so ever! It still seems like a air leak! But iv replaced and rebuilt anything that could be letting air by. So now im pinning it down to the carb... as one thing I noticed is that the mixture screw dosnt do anything! You can wind it right in and it runs just tge same to if it was wound right out... is there anything to look for? Could have a hairline crack or a pin hole somewhere in the carb? I dunno haha im running out of options haha... jm getting fed up and its not even my car! :D

Cheers for all the ideas so far chaps!
 

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You blocked the vac hose but left it in didn't you ? Try taking it off and blocking at the inlet itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah, but i did also try it by removing the rubber hose and blocking it at the brass tube on the inlet manifold... and it was still the same. its so hard to test for leaks by spraying wd40 or similar as the revs are so up and down you cant tell if its picking up on the spray or just picking up on its own haha
 

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when you fitted the 'new' manifolds did you silicon both sides of the gasket? that should seal any irregularities in the surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i used exhaust paste on the manifold gasket and blue hylomar on the carb gasket. im wondering if the exhaust paste isnt good enough to seal the gasket proper? just obviously it all being one unit its hard to know what to do haha.
 

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i used exhaust paste on the manifold gasket and blue hylomar on the carb gasket. im wondering if the exhaust paste isnt good enough to seal the gasket proper? just obviously it all being one unit its hard to know what to do haha.
fu*k the exhaust paste, use silicon on both. it doesn't dry hard, crack then fall out. plus it'll seal bigger gaps than hylomar allowing for 'old car' distortion. wait..... update from scott as i'm typing, on the inlet manifold face you'll see a small slot at the bottom of each port. this mustn't be blocked apparently as this air bleed is for the tickover. he said put the gasket on dry or you'll block them and it won't idle. the carb has no idle air bleed he assures me so relies on the slots for idling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ah right awesome! I always wondered what the slots where for I always thought it was to let excess feul out once you turn the engine of or something haha... always thinking how dumb as surely it'll let air in... well I'll whip the manifold off again and refit it with just a gasket. Im still convinced its something todo with the carb as like I say the mixture screw does nothing haha...
Thanks so much for you guys help so far... my mate whos car it is seems to be giving up haha dosnt have the patience and dedication I have ;) haha
 

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I had silicone get sucked into the slots on my carb so fit dry ,and mine was a brand new carb so it was the last thing i looked at.
 
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