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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Well the donor has arrived :-



I got a good chassis , 1700 O series engine with 5 speed box , servo brakes and all done 107k in 30 years so not bad.

Want to build something loosely based on this car :-



So need to move radiator/engine/gearbox back about 3 ft and build steel cowl , aluminum bonnet/sides and wooden body.

I will use almost 100% Sherpa parts until DVLA accept re-body and then if I enjoy driving it , look at maybe a 6 pot motor bigger wheels and start making it look more period and every so slightly steam punk .....

regards Paul
 

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Love this, had a similar idea myself. Even got as far as aquiring an ex-milk float Sherpa and straight 6 Rolls engine. The Sherpa's long gone but I still have the engine stashed for a rainy day ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How the original was built , formers stringers and 2 layers of 1.5mm plywood , needed a boat builder to pull that off !
Original :-



I have not been idle whilst looking for a donor , this is my second [ better looking ] model , trying to figure out how to build it simpler but retaining the look ?

So rather than make the formers and bulkheads from lots of expensive sheets of Birch Plywood [ B/P from now on ] as the original[ above ].
I though it better to build a frame work and clad it in lighter sheets of plywood for the flat bits and strip construction for the curved bits. this is better suited to my tools - cheaper - and allows luggage storage in the 4 largest lower bays behind seats.

and my 1/12 scale model:-



and inside :-



So from left to right a framework for the lower portion of the body where the sides only have a curve in one direction , floor from 6mm B/P roof from 3mm B/P above sits formers of 6mm B/P that will support strip construction maybe 3/4" x 3/8" soft wood ripped myself from planks [ throwing out all the badly knotted stuff ? ]

The silver bit is the bonnet that will be sheet steel or aluminium and the black piece is the steel radiator cowl.

The bulkhead behind the seats and dashboard and firewall will be 12mm B/P the floor will be 12mm B/P although probably made of laminated curved pieces for the lower edges to get the outer curved shape and floorboards of 12mm B/P so they can easily be removed should I want a different engine gearbox ?

I can't show the lower frame work in the cockpit as the seats are a little to large , however it would stretch from the existing one parallel to the ground to the firewall.

The other side of the model shows 3mm B/P skin on areas with only 1 curve [ yellow bits ] and all the top white area represents the area to be strip planked , the orange showing one side of where the planking will go and represent a couple of planks.

Sherpa has bed removed and rear screen out , just waiting for rain to stop will get out windscreen cut roof off and remove doors should fit in garage then for rest of dismantling.

regards Paul
 

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Have you seen the Napier Railton with the 'W' section 12 cylinder Napier Lion aero engine at any of the Brooklands events? - there are a couple more similar lookalikey cars that have been built and doing the rounds on (I think) old Bentley chassis's (saw them at Kop Hill this year) - one has a turbo charged diesel Cummins truck engine - it seemed surprisingly quiet and civilised for such an engine - OK not an aero engine but big capacity.




 

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Imho go to the very largest capacity engine you can find. Some of the earlier truck engines were petrol . Failing that a straight 8 engine out of a Buick, Hudson (uk Railton), Pontiac or Rolls powered ex army vehicle. What about a flat 4 or flat 6 Continental air cooled engine out of a Cessna ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the welcome and the pictures there are some beautiful motors made/driven in this country.

I am looking for the earlier cruder type of machine more seat of the pants , this makes it easier in some respects no ' shiny paint finish ' little metal body work and build can be cruder than the cars shown above :D

Baby steps however , first I want it successfully registered as a rebody with the DVLA and passing an MOT , then we can start dreaming about engines , modest initial goals mean more chance of finishing it ?

Seems very easy to make a open topped sporting car , 2 days so far ....



and now it fits in the garage , just .....



Next up is to start labelling wiring and removing front body a bit at a time till it is all gone.

Does anyone know if I can remove cab and leave engine and gearbox in situ ?

Found petrol tank leaking so that needs removing before long as I weld in that garage !

Not sure if it can be repaired , looks like a stone chip on the front has rusted through rest looks sound , shame as I thought it could be used if moved to under the tail to where the spare currently sits.

Need to judge the point where I no longer need to drive it and then the fun begins , my drive is quite step so without being able to drive it I need help to wheel it in and out.

all for now Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi all

Slow but steady progress , being hampered by the wiring , god it takes a torturous path and there loads of it I mean who puts the fuse box in the middle of the dash board and 6 relays inside the passenger foot well and all individually mounted ?



Anyone know how to undo speedo cable at instrument end ?



Sometimes simply hacking till you get where you want is best :tup:



Still puzzled why it has a ECU ? as it is a single carb engine with a manual choke and what looks like normal ignition ?

Success [ I think ] when I found and removed the front 2 cab/chassis bolts , still no idea where the other 2 are.

Also it is a very strange mix of Imperial and metric bolt sizes ?

All for now Paul
 

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Hi all

Slow but steady progress , being hampered by the wiring , god it takes a torturous path and there loads of it I mean who puts the fuse box in the middle of the dash board and 6 relays inside the passenger foot well and all individually mounted ?



Anyone know how to undo speedo cable at instrument end ?



Sometimes simply hacking till you get where you want is best :tup:

Squeeze the ribbed bit, like when you undo the lid of a medicine bottle, & it should just pull off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks I will give that a go.

Just started labeling the wiring , that should keep me busy for a while ...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Go the speedo cable off , so was able to disassemble the steering column switches only to find out there seem to be those snap off security bolts holding the column to the dashboard as well as holding the ignition switch to the column.

Found an easy way of labeling :-



white electricians tape onto glass [ mirror in my case ] add label with biro then add sellotape over text and cut to length with a single sided razor blade

drained water out , however pipes to heater proving hard to remove and windscreen wiper motor out but not the rack yet.

had an epiphany when looking at wiring loom , realised I was trying to remove loom by feeding it out of cab and into engine bay , in actual fact it looks like it was installed in the opposite direction , so have passenger side inside cab and drivers side looks easy to do so almost done with cab electrics ...

more progress soon Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Progress is slow but ongoing...



Removed :-

radiator
header tank
heater - bl**dy hell it is big and clumsy may need to find a smaller one to keep tootsies warm
cab wiring loom - at last ! after a bit of dashboard surgery and hitting all 6 relays with a bit of wood it is out

still to do [ in no particular order ] :-

steering column - security screws need removing
choke - can't understand how to release cable from carb end ? it is a HIF-44 and has a very small bolt and screw holding it maybe 4mm but which do I undo ?
gear lever - held with a rusty roll pin that needs tapping out , may try heat and making a small tool to go inside it with a lip to catch the pin ?
Fuel tank
drivers seat
brakes
clutch

Then un-clip rear loom and brake pipes from underneath cab.

I will cut the front valance where the 2 black lines are that will make the front open so it can clear the engine.

Hopeful I can get the cab off on my own ?

jack it up and place wood under it till it clears the gear lever stub then slide it backwards over the chassis rails till the front is clear of the gearbox then slide it sideways off the chassis.

I intend leaving the pedals in place and then cut the firewall and a section of floor out to free them , this will give me a reference as to where to put them in my build ?

all for now Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #18
To do list rapidly diminishing :tup:

Only brakes to disconnect , clutch [ may just unbolt master cylinder and tie to engine ] , choke to free , ECU to strap to engine along with coil , free rear wiring loom ...



As I have cut front valance off thought it would be a good idea to attach front number plate to chassis so it appears in photographs.

Plan is still to raise cab so valance clears wheels and slide it rearwards then sideways onto floor ?

Thanks to your good-selves [ and patience I am a bit thick sometimes :pmsl:] I now know how to remove gear lever so hopefully this weekend may attempt the lift/removal fingers crossed.

regards Paul
 

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if your after a big odd ball engine some of the old trucks from 60s had big 2 stroke diesels
Now there's a thought; a Detroit 8v92 (or a 12v71!) would certainly add some thunder... :shock: (And, as I understand, parts are still pretty easy to get for them, too.)
 
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