Can you show more of the steering setup with the damper connected?
From you Sir - praise indeed and much appreciated. I am still pondering a new front suspension but to be fair to Mr Ballamy will give his set-up a try before changing. The thing about this assembly is the camber which seems wrong to me. I think the centre bracket lifts the radius arms in the centre more than the original beam so giving the bow-legged effect. I may make another centre bracket with greater centre drop. Cheers, DaveSome quality metal work going on there.
Keep the pics coming
thanks for the picture.. id never heard of the steering damper, but get the idea now. thanks
Is this what you want Sqweaka? - let me know if there is something specific you need. I assumed you referred to the steering damper/idler. This is an Armstrong damper fitted to a special Ballamy bracket so it is bolted in the LHD steering box holes and corresponds the action of the standard steering box drop arm. The damper has had some mods done to the valve to make it, I think, equal force in each direction. I have looked into it but dont understand it yet. Cheers, Dave
I think I get your drift but it would be nice to see a picture of the punch if you are willing to divulge your design.for flattening out panels that 'pop' when bead rolled, i made up a scalloped punch, its about a 6th of a circle, ground up and polished then hardened, and i dress the ends of each swage to a radius, by hand with the punch and a hammer. you can just see the end of one here, doing this returns the panels to flat again, and in my eyes gives a much nicer finish too-
06/05/14. Just did a few beads on my swager and as I was doing it I remebered I had a tool I used many years ago when I made a batch of BSA Gold Star mudguard stays for George Prew. This tool was for flattening the ends just like the end of a bead and coincidentally the stays were the same size as my beads - 1/2". So I dug it out and tried it as Dez described. Although meant for a press I just placed it and hit it with a hide mallet and it sort of did the trick. These beads are not very visible as they are in the inner wing so ideal for practising. I still finished by tapping the crown down with a wooden mallet and all is well.
This is the tool.
And this is the inner wing with beads.
I managed to work out the problem with alignment. Mr Ballamy turned the axle round back to front so he could use the brake compensator boss at the rear of the beam. Because I am not using the cable brakes I put it together with the boss at the front where it usually goes, and this messed up the alignment in a big way. Happily, it is now all lined up ok except I still have to get the camber improved. Moral - take a picture before you take something apart that you are not familiar with. Anyway I can now go ahead and paint everything and get the spring overhauled and beefed up - I estimate by an additional 10% because of the heavier engine.Got a hickup with the front Ballamy suspension. It appears the axle beams are either bent or were badly welded in the first place. When it was all bolted in place the front axle beam pivots in the centre were out of line and to describe the amount I would say if they were lowered about 2" they would have lined up. The whole assembly is now off and a standard 'A' frame back in for the time being till I can ascertain what the problem with the Ballamy is. I thought it looked wrong as the wheels were canted out - sort of bow-legged look. I'll take some pictures soon to illustrate the problem and maybe one of you will be able to suggest the way forward.
Fair enough Kev but I have read about this suspension and Ballamy softened the spring rate in the standard car. When I tried this out in the garage the spring looked very flat under static pre-load ie with an extra 40/50 Kgs of engine measured over the axle. I will paint it up and re-fit and post a picture of it under load and see what you think then. Should be ready during January.Without going all the way back to the beginning of teh thread if you have boxed the chassis the spring will actually be too strong and you may find you have to deleaf rather than uprate. If still open rails I'd guess at the rate being pretty close by now . I'd leave it until in use before deciding (from experience )