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Discussion Starter #121
Many thanks Limeyepop. Well, she took three of us to Enfield Pageant of Motoring with no issues apart from the odd steering twitch. Cruising around 55 to 60 is comfortable but very noisy so while at the show I bought a sheet of sound absorbent felt for under the bonnet - got to start somewhere. I may even have to put a small box at the back of the exhaust. The next day I had the gear stick out and re-set it to an upright as I had moved the driver seat back a touch. Main thing now is to get the cable handbrake to work better and fit the electric radiator fan and switch. Still debating whether to put the switch in the header tank (neater) or get a switch adaptor tube that fits in the top hose (easier). Next big thing is getting the front bench seat re-trimmed and the Battlesbridge Ford show in August.
 

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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Thanks Nick666. Got a niggley problem right now - the gearbox is throwing its oil around - no its not leaking from the seals or drain plug. After a run the top cover plate is swimming in oil and for those who dont know this box, the single rail triumph Spitfire one, the cover has a lip around it and a breather at the front. I can only assume its coming out of the breather but why? The breather has tiny airways and isn't blocked. Anyway, I removed the plate just to see whats inside. The cover has a baffle and the plastic breather is very basic. I made a new paper gasket to replace the composition original and sealed it with Welseal as this will make removal easy if I still have a problem. I will now drive the car a good long way with the tunnel cover off the gearbox so I can see if it leaks again and spot its source. I have suspicion its the oil frothing but there was no sign of water milkiness and also the level was low.
I am also still deliberating on putting a Panhard rod on the back transverse spring to improve stability but it shouldn't need it with triangulated ladder bars...mmmmmm.
Latest on the gearbox leak - I gave the car a fair run of about 20 miles but the breather was leaking steadily so I have formed the opinion that the internal baffle is of bad design and contributing to the problem. I have made a steel tube elbow a close fit in the hole where the plastic breather was removed from. The elbow is Loctited in place with some of that strong stuff and the 7mm tube from the elbow runs up into the engine bay as high as it will go. The original breather is a push fit in the end of the tube to stop spiders nesting there. If it still leaks from there I will put a catch bottle on the end but I really dont think that it will.
Update 21/06/15. Took the car out for a good run up to 70 at times and got it all pretty hot. Came home and took the gearbox cover off - marvellous no trace of oil leakage, well, at least not the gearbox anyway. No real sign of oil having crept up the clear tube either. I reckon my little breather elbow protrudes down in such a way as to form another baffle. Anyway I cut the tube down a bit so its tucked out of sight in the engine bay, glued some felt under the cover and bolted it all down neat and tidy. Another tick in a box.
 

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
Another thing, having driven at 70, still no vibes from the propshaft, the cut and shut combo of Anglia back end and Spitfire front half are holding up. A lucky break as it was meant only as a pattern for a proper one to be made. Glad I have an isolator switch (the original Bakelite ignition switch) for the semaphores as they dont want to drop down much above 40 due to wind pressure pushing them back so I have to remember to only turn them on in town traffic as part of my posers charter.
 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Back from holiday and straight under the car to get some more niggles sorted. The handbrake is much better now after finding one of the brake shoes had jumped off the cylinder due to me not replacing the steady stud and spring and also the split pin in the handbrake lever. The brake drums were both pretty well stuck on the halfshafts and I had to make a puller to get them off and when they did it was with a bang. I have scraped the seating and assembled with a smear of copper grease. The original umbrella handle now has a long progressive pull and all I need to do now is find a hill to test it on. While round the back of the car I had a look at the spring shackles, another job done quick to get the car rolling. I found the poly bushes in the spring eye very tight so next job is take a light cut over the tubes so they are a free fit, about 2 or 3 thou off should do it.
I have my newly upholstered front bench seat back from Hot Rod Trimmer Chris Vining and its the absolute nuts. I asked Chris to put map pockets on the back and its exactly right. I now have somewhere to hide my wallet and also a place for passengers to put the tips and other donations. Battlesbridge Ford Show this coming weekend so weather permitting will put in an appearance. Pictures to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #127 (Edited)
Thanks for the work Chris plus the factory pictures. Will add some of mine after the above show. Hope to get more of the interior done next year.


And here's one of the car to prove I attended.
 

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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
Had a good run out last week and arrived home to see the trip meter just roll over to exactly 300 miles since I got her back on the road. Anyway, the ride is getting better as the springs settle down after being stripped and rebuilt. I am running 25psi in all four tyres and this seems about right. The front Ballamy suspension behaved impressively when I hit a large pot hole at about 30 and it just rode through majestically with no nasty bangs. Now the car is running well it would be easy to just use her as is and forget the work still required but hell - why not enjoy her for a while and get back on it in the spring. Meanwhile I am restoring a stock '47 Prefect so wont be sitting around indoors much.
One job that must be done though is to finish the electric radiator fan installation. I have finally fitted the temperature sensor in the radiator header which went in surprisingly well. Having removed the rad, timely as it had a load of rust sediment from the engine which had stood for some years before I got it, I decided on a position where it would be immersed when the water is hot but not too close to features that might be affected by my blow torch when soldering it. I drilled a small hole through the tank and then a 3/8 hole for the bolt of the nearest size Q-Max cutter in my toolbox. This was then opened up with a countersink so the threaded boss just fitted snug, important to stop the solder running right through. I then cleaned up the area around the hole for the solder joint. I also cleaned the brass boss as it had some dullness that indicates it is not clean enough. I managed to find some bungs in my bungs box that would stop off the inlet and outlet tubes and filled the rad with water and laid it out flat on the workmate with the water level about 6mm down from the brass surface of the tank. I used solid, ie non-cored solder and some plumbers flux paste bought from Homebase which is non-corrosive but works very well. A small amount of the flux was applied to the boss joint area and also the tank before assembly. Using a small blowtorch I heated the tank and boss locally and prodded the solder into the joint, avoiding the flame, until it started to melt and flow. It is important to avoid over-heating for two reasons, 1. you might melt the existing soldered joints and 2. brass will oxidise if got too hot, the flux will cook and then the solder will not adhere. The solder ran round the joint with encouragement from the torch flame as required and I added solder until there was a small fillet all round. You know its a good joint when you see a nice concave fillet. After cleaning off the flux with solvent the rad got a quick burst of satin black to make good. I used to do loads of soldering when I worked in the microwave communications industry so I did get plenty practise.

One thing I am dreading is fitting the fan to the radiator core as its so unnatural to go stabbing something through that lovely radiator. I have looked on U-Tube and waited till I absolutely have to do it but it has to be done. This kit has some conical springs although I didn't see any being used in the U Tube videos. I have a relay to fit and I am thinking it would be better placed in the dash area same as all the others. I can take the main power feed from the power terminal block just behind the dash so the relay and its in-line fuse will be very easily hidden. When I did the main re-wiring I put in an over-ride switch and led the (earth) wire and switched power lead for the relay through. I forgot to install the main power lead - doh. Anyway, not so bad as I used the split flexible convoluted sleeving that makes adding and removing wires much easier. When I needed to change one of the wires I had installed earlier I soldered the new wire to the end of the old one and managed to pull the new one through. When you have to do this it demonstrates the value of laying the wires in the sleeving tidily without crossing over as the wires can be pulled through more easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #129 (Edited)
I cant say I like it but the rad fan is on and it works fine - cuts in and cuts out and the engine gets nice and warm now. The bit I was dreading was not so bad but poor old rad having those plastic spikes pushed through must have been like I feel when going to the dentist or worse still - drawing cash from the ATM.







Main jobs left now are the inside trimmings like draught excluder Furflex and a headliner. I will need to do some filler and paint over the roof fill seam where the original filler has reacted to the paint - maybe something I mixed up wrong as it has happened elsewhere too. But its a car and it drives so may well take it out on Sunday - theres a show at Fords Dunton so I might just get in as a spectator.
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
When I drove the car I the rain a few months back the boot leaked so looked at the seal again. Small Ford Spares website suggests 10 x 16 sponge so I bought some. Trouble is it is too firm so the door won't shut. I remember the original stuff from years ago was much more spongy. I have decided to try another way by using some hollow bead self adhesive sponge in the rain channel instead of on the door, the fourth product I have tried. Pictures of both approaches to come when I find my camera and hopefully a successful result.
This is the stuff and it seems to fill the rain channel and the boot closes - just. Good price from Woolies, Cat. number 363. I actually fitted it on its side with the flat facing inwards.


Getting some work done on this as the filler across the front seam of the roof fill had a crack in it so I raked it out a little and filled it again. I had some paint left over so gave it a few coats - pity the colour didn't match but at least it has rubbed down ok for now. Should be ok for the Enfield Pageant again weather permitting.
July 2016. Now back from holiday in Wales and borrowed a 4 post lift to check the steering toe-in. It had a tad too much toe so reduced it to 3-5mm and the result has been good with none of the old twichiness. When checking the cooling system I found the lower section of the rad was not warming but very hot at the top so drained out and flushed it a few times. There was a lot of rusty coloured water coming out the first 2 times so assume that debris had come out of the engine which had been left dry stored for many years when the donor car was laid up. Anyway, it now warms up more uniformly. Fitted a 7lb cap at the same time as the donor car engine used a 13lb cap and the donor vehicle rad used a 4lb cap so split the difference to see what happens.** At great expense got some chrome, grade A triple plate, on my home-made 1500 badge and the rear lamp bezel so leaving the car alone now until after the next show in August. Plans are for more trimming such as headlining and some renovation to the Ballamy axle during the winter as the stock '47 Prefect needs me.

** August 2016 Concluded that the normal coolant level in the radiator header is much lower than I guessed - about 1/2" up from the bottom. No overheating and it all stays the same so job done.
Now fitted a cap with double seal so should find the coolant gets pulled back into the rad when it cools but yet to be tested fully.
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
Getting a few jobs done before the weather warms up enough to resume painting my 47 Prefect - headlining support rods for both this car and the 1947 stock Prefect needed finishing. There are 3 full width hoop rods at the rear and these were made by copying the old rusty ones using 5mm stainless steel rod. The radiused end were started by bending round a 6" diameter lump of steel from the shed. Then blended and shaped by hand. it was difficult to keep both ends in the same plane but a few twists and corrections did it good enough. I think the originals in 4mm rod were made of good steel as they are quite springy. I only had one complete set and needed to make at least one set so made 2 lots while in the mood. Picture here of how the ends were formed. I dont have the eqipment to form the neat eyes on the ends, more so as the metal is thicker so had washers welded on. Apart from the 3 full width hoops there are a further 8 short supports towards the front, 4 each side.






And here's what Mr Ford did -


Next one of the jobs Ive been putting off but looking forward to the challenge - the headlining. I did make one years ago for an upright '53 Anglia and my then girlfriend, now wife, did the machining but now its my turn. Hopefully she will see me struggling and help out. Ive got 2 to do so by the time I get the second one done should be perfect (haha).
 

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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
Small diversion this week as decided the remove the Ballamy suspension for some improvements to the king pin holes in the axles and have put on a standard axle. Problem was the track rod now sits under the sump with about 1/2" clearance so have to take a bite out of it.







Just a bit more trimming then weld in. No filler rod just fusing with the gas torch. Lower oil capacity will need to be looked at later so could be an extension fitted if necessary.
And now with a quick coat of matt black .......
 

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maybe fit a remote filter setup with twin filters. more oil capacity, better filtration and mount where it's easy/convenient to change the filters. don't you just hate when you do an engine swap and the filter is over a crossmember/steering so oil goes over it when changing the oil and filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
maybe fit a remote filter setup with twin filters. more oil capacity, better filtration and mount where it's easy/convenient to change the filters. don't you just hate when you do an engine swap and the filter is over a crossmember/steering so oil goes over it when changing the oil and filter.
Will look into that idea with the filters. My Grand Cherokee TD has its filter over the cross member and can only be got out from underneath so you have to get it turned over and bagged quick before it floods everywhere. Worse thing if you drop the filter on its way out as it has to be guided past the steering rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Are you going to put the Bellamy set up back on after the King Pin hole improvements
That's the plan but will see how the standard axle feels first. The Ballamy steering ball joints ran close to the sump also so the notch in the sump will give better clearance for that. Watch this 'space'. I am making replacement axle beams for the Ballamy and just making the welding jig at the moment. Will try to get some pictures of that project on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #138 (Edited)
Looking forward to seeing the Belamy restoration / rejuvination thread.
OK, will put a picture or three on here. Mainly making a jig to position the tubes for welding on the axle beams as the original items have badly worn king pin holes. Luckily the original type metalastic bushes are available. Are you anywhere near the race track? There's an outside chance I will take my AJS racer there in September.

This is the jig so far: -

Here you can see the section cut and angled to allow the castor angle for the centre metalastic bush with the original beam in place to set up for drilling the jig holes. The jig is yet to be drilled for the other beam. Ballamy reversed the axle beam on this version so the brake cable swivel bosses were at the back. As mine has hydtaulic brakes I use the bosses to drop 1/2" bolts through to make a secure abutment for the jack as and when.


The bushes are still available from avmr in Warminster. Here is the new tube in place ready to weld. I will get a professional to weld these as my welding is splash and dab in comparison. When they are welded I will insert a dummy steel bush that is a close push fit in the tube to reduce distortion.



I am using the 1/2" hole where the special damper perch bolt fits as this is a good reference point.


One more view of the angled section of the jig: -
 

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Discussion Starter #140 (Edited)





Tubes welded today and one bush pressed home. Used a smear of copperease on the tube bore. The bushes are a metric inch diameter, ie 25.4mm and 11.1mm/7/16"ID so bang on size. Outer tube is correct length but inner slightly over and I needn't have bothered but shortened it down to 49.2mm long from 50.5mm. Waiting for more bushes from avmr. I really like the satin finish chassis paint as it goes on and sticks better than the gloss stuff from local paint shop. If sprayed it is self priming and wish I had used it from the start but will do from now on.
 
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