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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I've got an engine and transmission in the USA that I'm shipping over. Apparently the engine turns by hand, what are the odds that once it's in the car it'll run without a rebuild? It's a 390 ford engine and I've been told that they're bullet-proof. How long would it take to rig up to a test stand and is that a good way to go? (You see I'd buy the rebuild stuff there as it's cheaper).
Thanks fellas....:tup:
 

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My name is Martin
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Hi mate, my Dad (Ross) mentioned you got the 390 GT. Well done.

If the engine is out I'd at least be doing some inspections, but same sort of inspections as any other engine really. No engine is bullet proof.

I'd check what cylinder heads you have got on the engine and whether they're genuine GT heads as they have 14 bolts (not 8 or 16). You'll need the GT manifolds too. Nothing can be identified on the block to differentiate a GT engine. Take note of any part numbers on the inlet etc as it will help you age the engine. C8 is '68 and C6 is '66, D2 is '72 and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi mate, my Dad (Ross) mentioned you got the 390 GT. Well done.

If the engine is out I'd at least be doing some inspections, but same sort of inspections as any other engine really. No engine is bullet proof.

I'd check what cylinder heads you have got on the engine and whether they're genuine GT heads as they have 14 bolts (not 8 or 16). You'll need the GT manifolds too. Nothing can be identified on the block to differentiate a GT engine. Take note of any part numbers on the inlet etc as it will help you age the engine. C8 is '68 and C6 is '66, D2 is '72 and so on.
Thanks Martin. It is a genuine 390 for a 1968 Mustang the head numbers are date perfect and all the ancilliaries are there. The car is near identical to the Marti report. The heads and intake manifold are correct. It is the engine the car came with. I will have the pan removed and the bearings checked, the crank and mating surfaces. Just hoping it'll run without a rebuild! Cheers. :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Ross, it seems that lots of these big blocks became unpopular in the early 70's with the fuel crisis,etc, and the small block swap seemed pretty common. they're thirsty old lumps as you know.
 

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I would accept that its probably shagged and needs a rebore and valve job etc. In my opinion a golden opportunity to do this and add a few hop-up bits. Get the best of both worlds - increased torque and performance plus improved economy (in relative terms that is).
 

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Johny, I agree with others, while it's on the bench you may as well pull the heads and sump and get it checked. At least then when it's fitted you've got peace of mind
 

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If I were you, whilst its not fitted, I'd pull it apart measure it all up, replace anything out of spec/worn/damaged and get any machine work done, It'll save you doing it later when a dodgy component might take out other parts along with it
 

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if it's going in a mustang it's not exactly an easy in and out job. i'd definately pull the heads and check the bores and valves too. rebuild bits are cheap and you'll be happier not having to take it out again in the future.
 
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