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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
DSC00592 (Small).JPG

I'm building a Low Cost Hot Rod.
The chassis is my own version of a Haynes Roadster or Locost.
It's got a megasquirt'd 4.6 Rover V8 and 4x4 running gear.

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I made a crude wireframe from the wooden buck (I'm making a new open style buck)

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The body is going to be made from 18awg steel. I've never done anything like this before. This is my first car project and I don't work in the industry so I'm learning everything as I go. I've only just learnt to gas weld, so welding a car together is a little challenging.

I'm starting the body by using the hinge pins as a reference. If I can get the hinge pins identical on both sides there be my datums.

I'm going for modern style hinge pins
closed-door (Small).jpg

dimple-die-plates (Small).jpg

Everything is being done on the cheap. I'm making an English wheel and I've made my own bead roller, sheet metal roller and folder.

I'm a newbie at all this, so any help and comments very welcome.
You can read more here: Home - Super 7th Heaven
 

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Dont look at all crude to me, good idea on the hinge pin reference points :smoke: post more please.......................
 

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Watching with interest; I like unique...:tup:

For what it's worth, Kev's BIVA Guide (Legal section) should prove worthwhile reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For what it's worth, Kev's BIVA Guide (Legal section) should prove worthwhile reading.
Have you got a link?
Is it the dummies guide to biva by kapri?

Yes, I'd like to build to BIVA but as I'll never drive it (health reasons) I read the IVA spec a couple years back then forgot about it.
 

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Yep, that's the one. He also hosts a closed Facebook group for seriously like-minded folk who have built / are building to the spec. Excellent for advice & shared (real) knowledge. Genuinely, a gent worth talking to.

IMHO, if you're putting all the effort in, it's worth doing it right. I admire you doing it anyway, even if you aren't going to drive it (drop me a PM if you wish?).
 

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IF thta is yours at the top , or yours will be near enough like that it lends itself TOTALLY to BIVA . Your front screen would be the biggest issue but I presum eyou are using something already available on teh market ? If so anything post about 1980 tend to be multimarked anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
BIVA and English Wheel

Hi Kev,
I have a re-manufactured windscreen with various markings and logos on it from an MG Midget. I also have an OEM one with no markings covered in dust and primer (the one in top shot) - which I'm using for the fab work.

The lights are all e-marked from things like '02 minis, Harleys, Piaggio mopeds etc.

I think my Biva downfall will be the completely random source of parts. There wasn't a donor car.
The engine is a mixture of bits from a '67 P5B Rover to a '02 Thor Rangie. The gearbox is part P5b, part LDV van and part Escort Cossie. There's hubs from a Granada 24v, brakes from an AMG Merc, discs from a x type Jag, tank from a Lotus, steering from a Corsa, rack from a Citroen etc etc
You name a car manufacturer or a decade and I'll point to a part!
Even if I can name the car a bit come off, chances are it's been modified - often to the point it's unrecognisable.

Some parts like the diffs (there's 2 as it's 4x4) and brakes are brand new, some parts are re-manufactured and some are from swap meets. I couldn't even tell you where the swap meet was let alone tell you what car they were off.

I'm looking forward to postie delivering your guide!

My next job is to finish the English Wheel. - It needs a lot of bracing, the legs adding and the cut out for the roller/anvils done.
english-wheel-frame-small.jpg
It's already blumin heavy and will eventually stand over 6 feet tall.
It's made from scrap fence posts, lathe parts and junk from around the workshop.
 

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Surely the random choice of parts does not matter too much for BIVA, more a question of whether you end up with a Q plate or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Surely the random choice of parts does not matter too much for BIVA, more a question of whether you end up with a Q plate or not.
I sooooooooo need to read Kev's guide. Anyone reading this should do the right thing (It's xmas), place a donation and get themselves a guide. Hats off to you Kev!

I'm waiting for the thud on the doormat, then my morning reads are sorted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It took a little longer than expected, but I've almost finished my English Wheel.
It's got a 38" throat, stands 8 foot tall and weighs nearly 26 stone.

It still needs a few bits adding and a new adjustment wheel but basically it's there.



I was worried about flex, but it seems pretty solid.

Now all I have to do is learn how to use it.
I'm going to get a bit of practice in, then maybe do a course at mph

http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/diy-english-wheel/
 

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That wheeling machine looks a great piece of kit, even if the car doesn't work out, you can be proud of that at least!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've got all the Lazze videos playing on loop in the workshop. I've even got most of the Ron Covell videos.

Getting the back and forth wheeling action didn't come naturally. My Zig Zagging is getting better, even though I still need to tighten the 'Z' a little.
I seem to be concentrating more on my Zig Zag than the workpiece. I haven't got the fluid action of Lazze/Ron, I keep having to have a little think as to which way to turn the metal.
I'm also not great at stopping in an even line. It's going to take some practice that's for sure
I made my first teardrop :)

I might lower it slightly as it's killing an old shoulder injury. Lazze and Ron make it look so easy, but with a rippled piece it takes some heaving back and forth. Even at twice my bodyweight I can drag the wheel around.
Starting with flat steel or once a buckled piece is semi-smooth it's much easier - I'll see how I go.

I think next time I'm making mirrored pair, I'll make all the individual bits at the same time and cleco them together. As one side grows the other will too.
That way I'll be able to adjust things easier to get them to match. Each sill and pillar are actually made of 8 bits of steel. That's too many to weld in on go.

I'm still learning - making plenty of mistakes actually helps somehow.

I've done the second sill and door pillar, which means I can mount the hinges. They give me the datums for both sides.


This sill is curved so I couldn't do it in the brake, so I did it in the bead roller with a tipping die. With each bend I then shrunk or stretch the metal to get everything straight again.
That meant I was often stretching metal I'd just shrunk.





I think I need to get my Gas welding skills up, as without a wheel I'd end up with a buckled mess. A flat anvil in the English wheel has proved invaluable.

read more:
Hand built Bodywork - Drivers Side Door Pillar - Super 7th Heaven
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
With the 2 door pillars done, I started the bulkhead.

I made a brace to join the two pillars and keep them square. It also gave me something flat to put a spirit level on.


For the front, I didn't want a total flat piece of steel so I added some bead rolling.

I had to butt weld it done the center so that it would fit the roller.

The next bit is going to be the hard bit as the MG Midget screen has a double curvature to the bottom edge.


It's 2.75" higher in the middle and also 2" further forward than the edges.


This time, I've cleco'd everything in place so I can adjust things latter if necessary.

read more here:
Hand Made Bulkhead - Super 7th Heaven
 
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