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Wooden Buck Hot Rod

15K views 99 replies 30 participants last post by  mygasser 
#1 ·
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood


I'm building a Low Cost Hot Rod.
The chassis is my own version of a Haynes Roadster or Locost.
It's got a megasquirt'd 4.6 Rover V8 and 4x4 running gear.

Vehicle cover Tire Wheel Car Vehicle


I made a crude wireframe from the wooden buck (I'm making a new open style buck)

Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Rim


The body is going to be made from 18awg steel. I've never done anything like this before. This is my first car project and I don't work in the industry so I'm learning everything as I go. I've only just learnt to gas weld, so welding a car together is a little challenging.

I'm starting the body by using the hinge pins as a reference. If I can get the hinge pins identical on both sides there be my datums.

I'm going for modern style hinge pins
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Bumper


Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Trunk


Everything is being done on the cheap. I'm making an English wheel and I've made my own bead roller, sheet metal roller and folder.

I'm a newbie at all this, so any help and comments very welcome.
You can read more here: Home - Super 7th Heaven
 
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#6 ·
For what it's worth, Kev's BIVA Guide (Legal section) should prove worthwhile reading.
Have you got a link?
Is it the dummies guide to biva by kapri?

Yes, I'd like to build to BIVA but as I'll never drive it (health reasons) I read the IVA spec a couple years back then forgot about it.
 
#7 ·
Yep, that's the one. He also hosts a closed Facebook group for seriously like-minded folk who have built / are building to the spec. Excellent for advice & shared (real) knowledge. Genuinely, a gent worth talking to.

IMHO, if you're putting all the effort in, it's worth doing it right. I admire you doing it anyway, even if you aren't going to drive it (drop me a PM if you wish?).
 
#9 ·
IF thta is yours at the top , or yours will be near enough like that it lends itself TOTALLY to BIVA . Your front screen would be the biggest issue but I presum eyou are using something already available on teh market ? If so anything post about 1980 tend to be multimarked anyway.
 
#10 ·
BIVA and English Wheel

Hi Kev,
I have a re-manufactured windscreen with various markings and logos on it from an MG Midget. I also have an OEM one with no markings covered in dust and primer (the one in top shot) - which I'm using for the fab work.

The lights are all e-marked from things like '02 minis, Harleys, Piaggio mopeds etc.

I think my Biva downfall will be the completely random source of parts. There wasn't a donor car.
The engine is a mixture of bits from a '67 P5B Rover to a '02 Thor Rangie. The gearbox is part P5b, part LDV van and part Escort Cossie. There's hubs from a Granada 24v, brakes from an AMG Merc, discs from a x type Jag, tank from a Lotus, steering from a Corsa, rack from a Citroen etc etc
You name a car manufacturer or a decade and I'll point to a part!
Even if I can name the car a bit come off, chances are it's been modified - often to the point it's unrecognisable.

Some parts like the diffs (there's 2 as it's 4x4) and brakes are brand new, some parts are re-manufactured and some are from swap meets. I couldn't even tell you where the swap meet was let alone tell you what car they were off.

I'm looking forward to postie delivering your guide!

My next job is to finish the English Wheel. - It needs a lot of bracing, the legs adding and the cut out for the roller/anvils done.
Wood Automotive exterior Gas Bumper Metal

It's already blumin heavy and will eventually stand over 6 feet tall.
It's made from scrap fence posts, lathe parts and junk from around the workshop.
 
#12 ·
I sooooooooo need to read Kev's guide. Anyone reading this should do the right thing (It's xmas), place a donation and get themselves a guide. Hats off to you Kev!

I'm waiting for the thud on the doormat, then my morning reads are sorted!
 
#13 ·
It took a little longer than expected, but I've almost finished my English Wheel.
It's got a 38" throat, stands 8 foot tall and weighs nearly 26 stone.

It still needs a few bits adding and a new adjustment wheel but basically it's there.



I was worried about flex, but it seems pretty solid.

Now all I have to do is learn how to use it.
I'm going to get a bit of practice in, then maybe do a course at mph

http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/diy-english-wheel/
 
#19 ·
I've got all the Lazze videos playing on loop in the workshop. I've even got most of the Ron Covell videos.

Getting the back and forth wheeling action didn't come naturally. My Zig Zagging is getting better, even though I still need to tighten the 'Z' a little.
I seem to be concentrating more on my Zig Zag than the workpiece. I haven't got the fluid action of Lazze/Ron, I keep having to have a little think as to which way to turn the metal.
I'm also not great at stopping in an even line. It's going to take some practice that's for sure
I made my first teardrop :)

I might lower it slightly as it's killing an old shoulder injury. Lazze and Ron make it look so easy, but with a rippled piece it takes some heaving back and forth. Even at twice my bodyweight I can drag the wheel around.
Starting with flat steel or once a buckled piece is semi-smooth it's much easier - I'll see how I go.

I think next time I'm making mirrored pair, I'll make all the individual bits at the same time and cleco them together. As one side grows the other will too.
That way I'll be able to adjust things easier to get them to match. Each sill and pillar are actually made of 8 bits of steel. That's too many to weld in on go.

I'm still learning - making plenty of mistakes actually helps somehow.

I've done the second sill and door pillar, which means I can mount the hinges. They give me the datums for both sides.


This sill is curved so I couldn't do it in the brake, so I did it in the bead roller with a tipping die. With each bend I then shrunk or stretch the metal to get everything straight again.
That meant I was often stretching metal I'd just shrunk.





I think I need to get my Gas welding skills up, as without a wheel I'd end up with a buckled mess. A flat anvil in the English wheel has proved invaluable.

read more:
Hand built Bodywork - Drivers Side Door Pillar - Super 7th Heaven
 
#20 ·
With the 2 door pillars done, I started the bulkhead.

I made a brace to join the two pillars and keep them square. It also gave me something flat to put a spirit level on.


For the front, I didn't want a total flat piece of steel so I added some bead rolling.

I had to butt weld it done the center so that it would fit the roller.

The next bit is going to be the hard bit as the MG Midget screen has a double curvature to the bottom edge.


It's 2.75" higher in the middle and also 2" further forward than the edges.


This time, I've cleco'd everything in place so I can adjust things latter if necessary.

read more here:
Hand Made Bulkhead - Super 7th Heaven
 
#22 ·
Got one. The midget surround is a bit useless in that it bolts on. The bottom section is just a U channel and a large bit of rubber. The side pillars might be useful for hammer forming but that's it. The U section springs out of shape as you disassemble so it not even much good as a profile guide.
 
#23 ·
I've started the scuttle, the basic shape is there but it still needs a bit of straightening.

The individual parts were pretty good - right up until I welded them.



You can see in the shot above that the triple curved scuttle section has a fair bit of twisting.

With the rear panel in place the top edge is roughly right, but I've not started to remove the twisting.


I'm using BMW hinges recessed into the bulkhead, that should lift the bonnet clear of the scuttle.


Straightening it is probably going to take quite a while.

Read more here
Bespoke Steel Scuttle - Super 7th Heaven
 
#24 ·
Drop Kev a line and see if you can join us in the BIVA page. The guide will help and all of us are getting an in depth knowledge of how or how not to build for BIVA. Some of the things you may think you need you may not, and there are things they'll look for you possibly didn't know about. I passed 17th Dec after a few issues, but they were partly my own fault. Your car looks well built and planned so should do fine with a few tweaks. Incidentally, if you have a Rover block is easy enough to get proof of age, and if as you say p5 or p6 will be just a visible smoke test.
 
#25 ·
After a few set-backs, I finally got back out in the garage to sort out the scuttle.

It took a fair bit of time to straighten the scuttle as the compound curves made it rather strong. It was also tricky to get in with tools.

I've made a start on the passenger side door pillar. Where all the curves join touch a couple attempts.



I now take some templates so I can get the passenger side somewhere similar.



read more here:
Windscreen Surround - Super 7th Heaven

Instead of a Midget / Lucas wiper box, I'm using a modern set-up from a BMW. I've tweaked it so the driver's wiper moves just over 90degs, whereas the passenger wiper moves faster and closer to 150degs.
Using my tweaked wiper setup should in theory (yet to try), give me more screen coverage, 2 speeds, intermittent and a tiny motor to hide.
 
#26 · (Edited)
It's official, the Doc's have banned me from driving (in case I die at the wheel), so I'll never drive it - but I'm still going

I've done a bit more on the cowl.
I wasn't happy with the scuttle as it looked like it had been cut from a '70s saloon. It didn't look very '30's Hot Rod.

I extended the sides to add some support for the BMW e46 gas ram bonnet hinges.
These side extensions will get cut up quite a bit as the heater vent will pass through them into the side bonnet vents.



These side extensions seemed to ruin the aesthetics even more.
With the curved screen and the modern hinges everything Hot Rod was missing.



I wasn't too pleased. As a metal newbie, fab work doesn't come easy. When it comes out looking wrong it's not good.

I even dropped the wireframe over the top - but that didn't help.



Somehow, with the bonnet slam edge propped crudely in place, I can see the final shape.

So I'm 80% happy again. :)
The '37 Ford'esq shape is coming back.

That vertical pole behind the radiator is what I mount my laser line to. I also tie a piece of fishing wire around it as a crude measuring device.
If a tiny knot hits in the same place on both sides, plus on the laser line / lines, it might sound crude, but I think it's good for less than 1mm.

I might build a permanent frame around the car that does nothing other than provides mounts for laser levels. I'll shine a grid at the car.

What is amazing is that everything can move countless mm (even when clamped) when I weld it. I then spend the rest of the day straightening everything only to knacker it again with the next weld.

How do the pros do it?

read more here
 
#29 ·
Haven't you got anyone can can at least drive you about in it ?
Soz, to hear about your close calls. - oh to be young again!

The wife would drive me, but to be honest I love car shows, I like rummaging at swap meets, I like building cars, but the drive there...... well I can take it leave it.
NSRA swap meet this sunday, whoop whoop - taking the missus on a romantic weekend!
I've had a few interesting motors but unless at a show, I was often shy getting out of them. - I'm bit of an introvert into extrovert stuff.
If I sold it and it funded a better build next time - that's happiness!
 
#30 ·
I've nearly finished the driver's side inner wing.

I ran out of gas and everywhere was shut.



It's better than the first, but far from perfect. C+ for effort - must try harder

I had a 'rusted beyond realistic rescue' bonnet from an Austin, so I thought I's cut it up to see if I could use the nose section.



Unfortunately, the edges were too vertical - not to mention foil thin.

To make the bonnet, I'll start by making the slam panel and the internal framework.

I have no clue how the pro's do it - it's just what the voices in my head tell me to do.

There are still lots of pieces either cleco'd or tack welded. So I think I'll have a weekend making everything solid.

Everything has a tendency to move and flop around at the moment
- a real pain when you have a bunch of lasers and spirit levels trying to get both sides to match.

Before I can realistically make the bonnet, I need to tie the two inner wings together. I'll do that with the internal grill framework.



I have (for some reason) a brand new bonnet catch from an MGF - so I'll use that.

I'll also make some crude 'engineers sweeps' - so I can get various profiles somewhere close.



My wireframe is now looking a little tired.

read more here
 
#31 ·
Bazaar question .......
HELP!
Has anyone got a First Gen R50 Mini (2000'ish) and a angle finder?

I'm still toying with using R50 headlights on this build but I don't know what angle they sit at.
I could spend ages making the fenders only for the headlamps to point at the sky. - or cross-eyed

How vertical is the mounting flange?

Are they both inline or do the flanges point inwards / outwards

In the old days I'd go to a scrappy and measure one - but health and safety bods won't let me into the yards these days - only the stock room. :(



The bottom left car has mini lamps but compared to the orange one (top right) They look like they point upwards.
Modern Morgans use mini lamps yet they look cross eyed.


Help please
 
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