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Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
hi ian yes I considered one of those , but decided to use a jurid coupling due to its vibration damping and flexibility .they can also take much more torque than I can make .

anyrdup..

so,,

the first mistake I made was to try to fit the crank line in with the chassis crossmember hole ...

firstly I cleaned and thinned the back of the rear engine

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then flopped about with the engines trying to get them to fit ..

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er ...that'll be a NO then ...

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so next I realised I would have to run the engines horizontal , and take the power shaft out above the x member ,and also I really needed to get on with the link from one engine to the next , to see how compact I could make it ,and what sort of technology I needed to gen up on to make it all.so that's the next step after this experiment.

robert:)
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
so a little bit more progress to show you !

decided to use a thick hunk of metal , and make a taper lock hub ,with a super grippy 1.5 degree taper ,to grip the crank on the back engine ...eg..

started with a flame cut hunk of steel,

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and made my roughed out hub on my 1963 lathe of playfulness..

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then ,to make the taper collety thing I used a tough mini primary gear..

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ending up with this ,

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then got a bit of nice 1/2 inch plate to make the crank plate for the front engine...

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and how they will sit with the jurid donut..

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having this will allow me to get mounty wiv the engines and see how they sit ...hurrah!
 
Discussion starter · #24 · (Edited)
and ,,, this is how it looks in situ...

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I still have to clearance the bolt heads on the flanges to give a little more space to close the two engines up about an inch .this will give me clearance at the front for the pulley.

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then my inner 12 year old gained ascendance and I got silver spray mental with it to see how the pattern on the blocks would show once it all cleaned properly and painted ..

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NOICE!

next to work on the remote gearbox design , I am using a mt75 transit box ,since they are cheaply available , take around 220lb/ft + and will probably not have to cope with that since I wont have a lot of grip.:shocked:

regards
robert
 
Discussion starter · #29 · (Edited)
Loving this!
thanks james ,appreciate it ,helps keep the enthusiasm up .

ian , I think it was off the transit mt75 gearbox .

edit: I remember , I think it came off the end of the jag xj40 prop after all!
 
So I'm not the only one daft enough to use a taxi chassis...
Good to see it!
BTW what happened to the body of the taxi, I wouldnt have minded that roof especially if it doesnt have a sunroof.

Keep the pictures coming please
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
i think they are keeping the rest of it ian ,and no your not the only one re the taxi chassis.. , it looks a very strong bit of kit ,and easy to use .i think i will have to take a leaf out of the rear and get some new springs for the front to soften it up a bit other wise its got springing for ,what, 2.4 tons max payload? ,and mine will weigh only 1 ton i hope ,so might be a bit of a rigid rattler.

robert
 
Discussion starter · #36 · (Edited)
on holiday a while ago so made this 1/10th scale model to see how it all fits .

including a mr cork head Robert scale model

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looks like it may all fit in ok doke ,bodywork still a work in progress , I would like it to be more curvacious ,

but not being a master panel beater , who stares hard at a bit of sheet metal until it shapes itself into a bow tie , then turns his back on it ,and while drinking his tea raises one hand twitches his fingers and the metal does another impossible fold , I will prob make it out of fibreglass over a mold made of toothpicks and wrapping paper .

I do have this grill

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to help with lines etc love its deco-nessnosity.oh yes .

robert
 
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