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Make sure you go carefull with that body. I had mine slide last year unexpectedly. Where in notts are you? Might be able to lend a hand.

Trigger
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Make sure you go carefull with that body. I had mine slide last year unexpectedly. Where in notts are you? Might be able to lend a hand.

Trigger
Trigger thanks for offering.

I am in Mansfield and will heed your warning.

I usually go around the corner for some local muscle a dad and 2 sons are generally enough , we did manage to lift the dropside off the chassis.

However to be honest I have no idea how heavy this may be ?

I had thought of cutting it in half front to back through the gear lever hole , although there is a big cross cab beam under the rear seat mounts and my saw/grinder may not have the depth to tackle that ?

Still struggling with gear levers chokes etc

Also fetching another motor today and putting it on the front lawn has sort of limited my dismantling time at the moment.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Had to leave this for a while , however got a few hours today.

Choke is out
clutch drained and master cylinder unbolted and strapped to engine
front brakes drained - rears seem to have a different sized brake nipple ? not found a spanner yet that fits
ECU clear of body work and strapped to engine
rear loom freed from cab and tied up out of way.

Next drain rear brakes and then disconnect both brake pipes from master cylinder and u-nclip from cab.

Then jack up the rear of the cab and attempt to cut it in half.

back soon ....
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Make sure you go carefull with that body. I had mine slide last year unexpectedly. Where in notts are you? Might be able to lend a hand.

Trigger
Trigger

Yep mine had a surprise for me as well .....

One foot inside and one on the floor when I cut through the last bit the left half gave a lurch and almost dumped me on the floor.

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Luckily I had left the front bolt in , well actually it was trapped by the battery box whose screws were rusted in , and a pile of wood under the step where I originally jacked it up PHEW

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Need to organise my local muscle to get it shifted and then I can continue to remove the Servo and unclip the pipes from the drivers side and that can be lifted off as well.

Onward and every up ward as they say
 
Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
Well I was frustrated as my usual muscled seemed to have been out last night and so no progress could be made ...

Then the light came on :D if it wanted to fall off then why not let it and then drag the separate parts out of the way ?

So using some ratchet straps I squeezed it back together and removed the wooden blocks holding it up...

So far so good.

I then wheeled it out the garage so when it fell it was already outside [ no room to drop the drivers side in the garage anyway ]

I then propped the drivers side back up and undid the straps , passenger side fell onto front wheel and easily lifted off and dragged onto the lawn.

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Went underneath and freed off the last brake pipes and the drivers side almost came free , only some numpty had reattached the handbrake cable forgetting it was fastened to some gubbins under the floor - freeing it gave this...

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Silly grin as I sat on a board right near the rear wheel and surveyed the bits laid out in front of me.

Next ? needs wheeling out and giving a good pressure washing before I start assessing the next stage.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Well not much has happened to this , needed some thinking time and had a ' honey do ' list most of that is now taken care off.

Engine and gearbox need moving , however as I am keeping them they do not need to come out only crawl down the chassis a bit.

Removed prop shaft from gearbox tail and dropped it onto floor for now.

So decided to prop up some rails under the cross members and drop the engine and gearbox onto them then the chassis can be wheeled forward ?

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The gearbox was complicated as the cross member was in-front of the rear spring hanger and needed to be behind it so that meant more wood and jacking up stuff to free it.

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Engine is complicated as it is in 3 pieces and so the inside piece is narrow enough to move inside the chassis rails the plates need removing from the chassis for future use that entails removing steering box.

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Hope when I have them off chassis will run forward and I can re-attach gearbox cross member an see how far back it can go.

Then it is down to can engine/gearbox stay under the chassis and go far enough back , or do they need to be raised and sit on top of the chassis ? if so will the prop shaft angle still be acceptable ?

It is a 2 piece prop shaft and I would really like to loose the centre bearing and the front shaft , however I notice the 2 yokes are a different size so that would be a simple job , least the sliding aspect is in the longer rear shaft so the front could be shortened down to 175mm ? and may still work ?

all for now Paul
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Panic !!!

My rolling chassis won't roll anymore ?

Mystified I jack up each of the front wheels to find I could not turn them ?

Well I rolled it out of the garage to pressure wash engine and gearbox , I can only assume the water has splashed onto the discs and in 4 days they have enough rust on them to stop the wheels turning ?

I will try taking the wheel off and bolting a piece of wood to the wheel studs to see if rocking them will free them ?

Otherwise I assume I will have to take the disc pads out.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Yep cracked it , bashed 2 tabs that sat proud on the top of each disc pad and a bit of leverage from a crow bar and they are now both free

Hoorah

onward and upward
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Being old is not so good for the working for long periods or in the cold , however being retired does mean I can grab 1/2 to 1 hour most days and things do get done even a tidy up helps once in a while.

So been busy looking at engine/gearbox positions after taking advice from a couple of the experts on here it seems my best option is to move the engine/gearbox x member onto the top of the chassis rails ? less cluttered up there as the suspension is not mounted on the top.

Part way through the operation it became clear the exhaust 2 into 1 would have to be removed ?

Took 2 days to get one manifold nut off ! and that was the one easiest to get to :bigsmile:

So this is where it is now :-

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and this shows the engine is now 70cm [ 28" ] further back than it was :-

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I will have another go at getting it back some more as it would look better further back.

Higher will suit the vehicle style , however it won't do much for the handling , neither will tall skinny tyres :D

I have puzzled over the old vehicles as doing this on mine has raised the prop shaft above the chassis and maybe into the cockpit ? I think the actual Edwardian cars did not have this problem as the engines were long stroke and so effectively the gearboxes were lower on the engine ?
 
Doesn't really matter ad most cars have a prop tunnel. I got one I my car and half a gearbox as well. Looking good
 
the 1912ish silver ghost lookalike my dad and me built is over 7 foot tall with 6.50x20 tyres and a 4.0 rolls royce s/six up high so don't worry about handling. that's got a '77 sherpa chassis under it.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
the 1912ish silver ghost lookalike my dad and me built is over 7 foot tall with 6.50x20 tyres and a 4.0 rolls royce s/six up high so don't worry about handling. that's got a '77 sherpa chassis under it.
Wow

Any pictures ?

build thread ?

Sounds like you have solved most of the problems I face.....

need to get my head around how tall it will be , looks like I will be able to drum my fingers on the roof of the wife's Astra from the drivers seat , just what we need !!!
 
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